An idea often not agreeable to purists...use an extra rad for hot weather and or heavier load travelling. Install aux. rad right behind the grill in the airflow.

I've used a GM pickup heater core on the 1380 powered sedan c/w trailer here in North America and like item in loaded 1098 powered ROO in Australia and North America. There are lots of off the shelf options at auto parts stores (here in Canada) to select dimensions etc. to fit your space. 1380 also had a puller fan in the LF inner guard with on/off switch on dash - simple/effective since I knew when the running conditions were hot and could leave switched on at highway rest stops.

Easily blocked off or removed in cooler weather lighter duty. Likewise an oil cooler can be easily blocked off in cooler weather.



One bolt in apron locates the simple frame to hold the rad



Same aux. rad loaned to Cooper S owner for Spring Thaw Rally (ignore the complex mounting he cobbled together.



Nose on view of the S.



Same rad (borrowed to help) Ex-Mini Miglia race car at Can-Am Mini Challenge race at Mid-Ohio last June...ended overheating.



Same aux. rad back in Aussie Van after Mid-Ohio (photo to show bagged dizzy during extreme wind/rain events.



Same aux. rad out front on Diddy's round the world Van AFTER cracking both block and head on crossing the Mojave Desert to Arizona...we got him home 1,800 miles where engine rebuilt with new block & head.

For what it's worth.

Rick/Hunter2

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

Well my car was boiling and I gave it a good clean, fixed the problem, go figure.

Would definitely keep that car nice and cool! Looking good!



Yeah makes a big difference- once mine was reco'd and flushed out a few times it was definitely better. Not quite good enough though unfortunately.

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

Unfortunately I have to work that weekend of the terribly British day. I work every second weekend, but have had a bad run lately with events been on my weekend I work.

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1963 Morris 850

Getting back to your original question, I was flicking through a mag I get at work (Australian Automotive Aftermarket Magazine) and it had a little sales pitch on Evans Waterless Coolants.

"Traditional engine coolant is a 50:50 mix of ethylene glycol and water. Heat is transferred from the cylinder bore and cylinder head to the liquid coolant. The state of the coolant is dependent on the rate of heat input. When the coolant reaches the hottest part of the cylinder head which is usually around the combustion chamber and exhaust valve, it will actually start to boil. This phase change is identified as nucleate boiling and allows efficient transfer of heat. The coolants chemical and thermal reaction is responsible for how efficient this process becomes.

At very low load on the engine no boiling occurs. During higher engine loads and speeds, the rate of heat flow through the cylinder head is increased until steam bubbles are formed in certain regions on the surface of the water jacket. These are the metal bridge between the exhaust valve seats and the spark plug boss.

Under severe engine load and speed the vapour bubbles become so large and numerous that the liquid has difficulty flowing. When this critical temperature is reached, the hot surface of the water jacket suddenly becomes insulated by individual steam bubbles which join together to form a film. Under these conditions, the film insulates the water jacket from the coolant. The metal surface temperature of the cylinder head elevates dramatically and can cause the engine to ping or lack power even though the temperature gauge shows no sign of this condition.

Evans Cooling Systems has developed a range of waterless coolants which contain no water at all. Therefore the coolant remains in it's liquid form, ensuring no vapour is formed and maximum thermal conductivity is achieved at all temperatures.

In addition it never freezes and does not boil until 190° C. it also is a lifetime coolant so maintenance is completely eliminated once installed.

Evans High Performance Waterless Engine Coolant can be installed in any engine (stock or modified) with excellent results.

With Evans Coolant in your system and sufficient measures taken to increase flow of coolant to the radiator, it is possible to control higher operating temperatures on and off the highway. More importantly, since the Evans Coolant is removing heat from the engine, it runs well at any temperature. The loading up and poor drivability at elevated coolant temperature is now gone.

It's important to note that the cylinder head metal surface temperature drops dramatically with Evans Coolant installed, though the liquid temperature on the gauge may not have changed much.


For more information visit http://www.evanscoolants.com.au"

So it gives information I wasn't aware of, interesting info.

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Oops what am i doing here?

Wow, that is very, very interesting.. I saw an episoe of wheeler dealers where they restored a 1903 Darracq. They were obviously having cooling issues and once they'd refurbed the water pump and radiator, they said they use nothing but Evans coolant in their classics. Definitely didn't boil once all that had been fixed up.

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

re my previous posts regarding the UK 3 core `Cooper' radiator, I have it on good authority from the Oz importer that the fragile shroud problem I mentioned was fixed by the manufacturer a year or more ago.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Or....
Liquid Intelligents 115

Thanks Doc, I haven't really had a problem with the durability side of things. I ordered one of these bad boys late last week. Hopefully will keep the mini nice and cool!

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

I believe that is Glycol based.

I'd advocate moving away from anything with Glycol in it. It is very toxic.

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Cheers
Alec
1275LS - July 78 - XNFAD18Y/102918

Hmmm...but so is petrol, brake fluid, and oil. At least the coolant stays inside (usually).

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http://www.mini-hb.co.nz

The glycol water mixes separate amd get sludgy so we need to change them to keep our systems clean. So how do you dispose of it? Its easy enough with oil because councils collect it and brake fluid doesnt get dropped in a quantity that is hard to deal with but coolant is another matter. We change it regularly and there is 4l or so of the stuff.
If there is another option that doesnt involve changing it regularly and helps prevent corrosion I am going to give it a go.
Ill let you know how I get on.

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Cheers
Alec
1275LS - July 78 - XNFAD18Y/102918

I'm no expert (and please correct me if I'm wrong) but I was doing some reading on EVANS FAQ's and this was asked

Q. What is Evans Waterless Coolant made of?

A. Evans Waterless Coolant is a patented non-toxic liquid comprising of blended heat transfer fluids and a proprietary inhibitor package

So, does this mean there is possibly a non toxic solution here?

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

Exactly. The evans guy in the leno video reckons you could drink the stuff... but said you shouldnt obviously.

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Cheers
Alec
1275LS - July 78 - XNFAD18Y/102918

Getting to the fine print about Liquid Intelligence:

http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/


“This is our (Liquid Intelligence) definition of the term waterless coolant as opposed to a non-aqueous coolant.”



At least they say it is Glycol based.

Evans however:

http://www.evanscoolants.com.au/faqs.html



I am going to ask Evans for a MSDS. Legally they can't sell it without one. If I get it I'll post one on here.

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Cheers
Alec
1275LS - July 78 - XNFAD18Y/102918