I know this a difficult question. But after another suggestion on needles.

1330cc. Currently running twin HS2 1 1/4in SUs. Aftermarket inlet manifold think it was one from Mini Spares. 3-2-1 LCBs. GR did the cylinder head and cam 14yrs ago. K&N pancake inlet filters.

Singer oil in the dash pots.

I've given the AH2s a go with heavy red springs but seems to be to lean, it breaks down and misses and won't rev cleanly.

Fitted 3s and lighter blue springs which revs clean and runs ok but smells rich. Plugs are pretty black. Blows black smoke also.

I only have a pair of colortune plugs to assist with tuning. Considering getting an Innovate LM-2 to help further.

Need to try and find something between an AH2 and a 3 around the first few stations.

Any thoughts?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I might give a pair of H6s a go?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

#3 and AH2 are basically identical, they're running different for you because you changed the springs too

I used #6 on my twin 1.5"s and they were good. Comparing a #3 and a#6 (see below) you'll see that the #6 "looks" a lot richer, but only because it's got the same starting point, adjust the #6 to give you a clean idle and it'll still fuel well at revs

look here - use the needle search bit to go richer and leaner on the stations you want....

http://www.morrismini.com/SUNeedlesV2.a ... &size=.090

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

If you have a flat spot on acceleration, the Singer oil in the dash pots might be too thin and not slowing the piston lift enough to keep excess air coming in too quickly. Try heavier oils - engine oils of various grades could be tried to rich the acceleration before changing needles.

I had #6s in Barney and he ran good, but also had a `flat spot' on acceleration. I had ATF in the dampers.
I put GR's A/F meter on and went for a drive. We found at the flat spot it was going RICH, not lean. Pulled the dampers out and it ran fine. It was in summer.
So, I used to run them dry in most of the year, and used ATF in winter.

[edit] this was with twin HS4s not HS2s...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm getting a hold of a Innovate LM-1 AFR meter so that I'm not flying blind.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Hey guys sorry to hijack the thread.

Was wondering how do i find a starting point of which needle to fit if I have no idea what I have now and have no access to an a/f meter. Mine runs well but really gurrgles and dies between gear changes when going back on the throttle.

When free revving its fine.

Rodney

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

you need a starting point - pull one of yours out and look at the number on it...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Oh are there numbers on them? Never looked .

Cheers Simon

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

yeah, otherwise it's a bit hard to tell them apart....

You just remove the screw in the side of the piston, except if they're fixed needles (not springy) then they're probably stuck in, but don't be tempted to grab them with pliers and pull them out. They'll be rooted if you do that

What I do is remove the screw, and very carefully use a little drill (like 1.5mm) to drill a dimple in the side of the shank (through the hole), then use something with a sharp point (like a scriber, I use an old school compass) to lever it out. That way they don't get damaged

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Another method I was shown by a ex BMC mechanic is to use soft vice grips/guards (copper/aluminium) to grip the needle in a bench vice and gently twist.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Got a hold of an LM-2 and it confirms that things are rich. Im fouling plugs at idle so yeah its rich....

At WOT its showing12.7:1 AFR, but cruise is 10:1...... I think stations 3456 need to be a big thicker!!!

I paid for the WINSU program and gave that a shot to see what it would suggest for me. With my general engine specs etc it is suggesting in order of closest match

ABM
ABU
ADN
AAP
ADJ
ADT
AAD
ABL
ABK
AAN

These are quite long needles. I think they all have 15 stations where as the M, AH2, 3 etc have about 12-13 stations....

What changes with a longer needle????? Would such a long needle work???? I dont mind buying an ABM just to give it a shot whilst I can see whats going on with the LM-2.

WINSU is also suggesting a Yellow spring be used. Im using red springs. I also have a set of blues.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I use http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/ to compare the needle stations.

Yeah I use that also. You can see how much different those listed needles are compared to the 3s or AH2s. And the extra stations.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Forget yellow springs, they are too heavy for HS2 or HS4. Only any good in HS6.... maybe.
Blues are lighter than reds. Too light for a 1330 with HS2s.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.