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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 7:25 pm 
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Hi all
I am going to install a mechanical temperature gauge on my daughters and my mini's.
The adaptor below is a parallel thread and I am not sure how it is to seal in the head.
Do I just screw it in till it stops, use thread sealant or does the head have a tapered thread in it ?
The rest should be straight forward other than I don't have a hole in the fire wall big enough for the grommet that is supplied on the capillary line.
Any advice would be appreciated.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 7:36 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
It will screw straight in (if it is the right thread), and a little bit of thread sealant never does any harm. Stag or a similar sealant goes well.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 7:53 pm 
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Thanks Mick
I measured the OD of both the electric temperature sender and the mechanical adaptor ant they are both 5/8" so it should screw in OK.
My dad introduced me to STAG when I was rebuilding engines in the early 70's (Brabham Torana) and I have used it successfully ever since.

Phil

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:14 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Just a note, I've had the bulb contact a part of the head as it goes in. I didn't realise what I was doing and it deformed the bulb a little.

I don't think it affected the operation, but I guess it should have by reducing the internal volume of the bulb. Anyway, watch out for that.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:29 pm 
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Phil 850 wrote:
Hi all
I am going to install a mechanical temperature gauge on my daughters and my mini's.
The adaptor below is a parallel thread and I am not sure how it is to seal in the head.
Do I just screw it in till it stops, use thread sealant or does the head have a tapered thread in it ?
The rest should be straight forward other than I don't have a hole in the fire wall big enough for the grommet that is supplied on the capillary line.
Any advice would be appreciated.

Image


I'm about to install the exact same gauge into my deluxe. With the adaptor it's a direct fit. Even when using the electric sender I use a little Loctite on the thread to ensure it doesn't leak.

Stuck the sensor in a heated saucepan of water today, and comparing it to an infrared temp gun it's more or less spot on!

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 9:11 pm 
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Thanks jprior
It's good to have reassurance before you tackle a job.

Phil

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 6:43 am 
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Mick wrote:
Just a note, I've had the bulb contact a part of the head as it goes in. I didn't realise what I was doing and it deformed the bulb a little.

I don't think it affected the operation, but I guess it should have by reducing the internal volume of the bulb. Anyway, watch out for that.


Mick, not good...the aim should be to have the bulb sitting in the coolant flow and not fouling any part of the head or block (depending whee you fit it)..."deformed" may mean you have effected its operation or calibration.

I would be doing a trial fit and measure without the adaptors first to see how deep you can insert the bulb. Then carefully insert into the adaptor (some plumbers tap on the threads is OK) and add spacers under the bulb thread or adaptor if necessary.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:09 am 
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Just another question on this. I recently went to fit a mechanical gauge to my car. I grabbed an old head I had lying around and took it down to the auto shop. We pulled a few gauges out and test fit them in the head to make sure it would work as I was on a bit of a time schedule for the swap. The head I used to test fit had a tapered edge inside the temp sender hole that the sender bulb sat up against and then you could just screw the fitting on over the top and it sealed like a dream, and had the bulb sitting nicely in the middle of the coolant flow. I went to do this on the engine in my car and found that the head in the car did not have this tapered seat, so the bulb would not seat, and when the fitting was tightened over the bulb it would just wiggle about and leak coolant. Is this a common thing?

Cheers,
Keels.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:20 am 
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WasabiPimpNinja wrote:
Just another question on this. I recently went to fit a mechanical gauge to my car. I grabbed an old head I had lying around and took it down to the auto shop. We pulled a few gauges out and test fit them in the head to make sure it would work as I was on a bit of a time schedule for the swap. The head I used to test fit had a tapered edge inside the temp sender hole that the sender bulb sat up against and then you could just screw the fitting on over the top and it sealed like a dream, and had the bulb sitting nicely in the middle of the coolant flow. I went to do this on the engine in my car and found that the head in the car did not have this tapered seat, so the bulb would not seat, and when the fitting was tightened over the bulb it would just wiggle about and leak coolant. Is this a common thing?

Cheers,
Keels.


Did you try using the TE5 adapter?

http://minisport.com.au/mini-temp-gauge ... -is-fitted

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:31 am 
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jprior2912 wrote:


I didn't try using an adaptor. This was sort of a last minute decision so I was just trying to use standard parts from the auto shop. Decided on Thursday Night I needed a mech temp gauge for a 3hr road trip on Friday morning.

I've just had a look at that adaptor and it seems to be exactly what I need to make it work. I just thought it was weird that one head sealed perfectly and the other hadn't a snowballs chance. I'm pretty sure they were even the same casting number.

Cheers,
Keels.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:41 am 
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9YaTaH wrote:
Mick wrote:
Just a note, I've had the bulb contact a part of the head as it goes in. I didn't realise what I was doing and it deformed the bulb a little.

I don't think it affected the operation, but I guess it should have by reducing the internal volume of the bulb. Anyway, watch out for that.


Mick, not good...the aim should be to have the bulb sitting in the coolant flow and not fouling any part of the head or block (depending whee you fit it)..."deformed" may mean you have effected its operation or calibration.

I would be doing a trial fit and measure without the adaptors first to see how deep you can insert the bulb. Then carefully insert into the adaptor (some plumbers tap on the threads is OK) and add spacers under the bulb thread or adaptor if necessary.


Yes, this was about 22 years ago, and the bulb was longer than normal, maybe it had been repaired?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 12:22 pm 
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WasabiPimpNinja wrote:
jprior2912 wrote:


I didn't try using an adaptor. This was sort of a last minute decision so I was just trying to use standard parts from the auto shop. Decided on Thursday Night I needed a mech temp gauge for a 3hr road trip on Friday morning.

I've just had a look at that adaptor and it seems to be exactly what I need to make it work. I just thought it was weird that one head sealed perfectly and the other hadn't a snowballs chance. I'm pretty sure they were even the same casting number.

Cheers,
Keels.


That sounds like a good idea if you're going on a road trip - If I only I had mine installed the other week for my road trip. It came the day before I left and I thought 'nah she'll be right'... Famous last words haha.

Good luck

James

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 12:41 pm 
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jprior2912 wrote:
That sounds like a good idea if you're going on a road trip - If I only I had mine installed the other week for my road trip. It came the day before I left and I thought 'nah she'll be right'... Famous last words haha.

Good luck

James


Hey James,

Yes I read through what happened, and if it makes you feel any better I've done the exact same thing before. Luckily enough the only real issues I had on my road trip were the passenger front suspension settling down properly and causing the tyre to rub a bit on lock, and the drivers windscreen wiper falling off in the rain. Both pretty easy fixes.

In regards to installing adaptors/sensors, I see most people recommend Loctite or some other similar liquid sealant. When I was installing mine, I was just going to use some thread tape. Is there a specific reason that most people use a liquid thread sealer over tape or is it just a matter of personal preference?

Cheers,
Keels.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 1:01 pm 
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Mick wrote:
9YaTaH wrote:
Mick wrote:
Just a note, I've had the bulb contact a part of the head as it goes in. I didn't realise what I was doing and it deformed the bulb a little.

I don't think it affected the operation, but I guess it should have by reducing the internal volume of the bulb. Anyway, watch out for that.


Mick, not good...the aim should be to have the bulb sitting in the coolant flow and not fouling any part of the head or block (depending whee you fit it)..."deformed" may mean you have effected its operation or calibration.

I would be doing a trial fit and measure without the adaptors first to see how deep you can insert the bulb. Then carefully insert into the adaptor (some plumbers tap on the threads is OK) and add spacers under the bulb thread or adaptor if necessary.


Yes, this was about 22 years ago, and the bulb was longer than normal, maybe it had been repaired?



I've had this happen with a gauge recently - its definitely worth checking if it's a largish sender. Pretty easy to see if the thermostat is off, else poke something in the hole!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:59 pm 
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jprior2912 wrote:
WasabiPimpNinja wrote:
jprior2912 wrote:


I didn't try using an adaptor. This was sort of a last minute decision so I was just trying to use standard parts from the auto shop. Decided on Thursday Night I needed a mech temp gauge for a 3hr road trip on Friday morning.

I've just had a look at that adaptor and it seems to be exactly what I need to make it work. I just thought it was weird that one head sealed perfectly and the other hadn't a snowballs chance. I'm pretty sure they were even the same casting number.

Cheers,
Keels.


That sounds like a good idea if you're going on a road trip - If I only I had mine installed the other week for my road trip. It came the day before I left and I thought 'nah she'll be right'... Famous last words haha.

Good luck

James


Stop beating yourself up James...a blown head gasket etc can cause damage very quickly so unless you are constantly watching the Temp Gauge and ignoring everything else like your speed or the road ahead, anyone can get caught out :?

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