Depends on condition, is it ready to run or needs a rebuild?

Also, check it's not cracked.... as 295s have been known to.
Hint: don't buy any head with the chambers and head face painted silver... as a member here did on eBay once but (but it was a 12G940 head).
When the paint came off during decking, the crack was obvious.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yikes. Not cool

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

"apparently" is been crack tested, ported and polished, had the deck skimmed and the valves done although needs new seats.... he was going to put it on a 998 and went down another path... add reads..

THIS IS A MODIFIED COOPER 12G295 CYLINDER HEAD FOR MORRIS OR LEYLAND MINI
IT HAS BEEN CRACK TESTED AND ALL IS GOOD. NO CRACKS AT ALL.
THIS HEAD HAS BEEN SHIMMED APPROX 60 THOU OR 1.5mm TO REDUCE COMBUSTION CHAMBER, CAN BE USED ON STANDARD DISHED OR FLAT TOP PISTONS.
I WAS GOING TO USE THIS WITH THE 998 + 100 PISTONS I'M ALSO SELLING.
EXHAUST VALVES ARE 25.4mm. THE VALVES ARE CAM 6505 LEAD FREE BUT HEAD DOESN'T APPEAR TO HAVE UNLEADED SEATS.
INLET VALVES ARE 33mm APPROX. THEY ARE TAM 1058 TURNED DOWN FROM ORIGINAL 35.75MM.
VALVE SPRINGS ARE HEAVY DUTY TO SUIT.
VALVES WILL NEED RE SEATING.
THE INLET PORTS HAVE BEEN PORTED AND POLISHED.
HAS NO STUDS ON THE HEAD.

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196# Morris VAN
2013 JGC 5.7 Hemi
2012 Civic Type R

What I've done so far - 295 head cleaned up and bigger valves, 100 thou oversized flat top Pistons, lightened and balanced everything, rods, crank, flywheel. Duplex timing chain, 3 into 1 extractors RC40 exhaust. Twin SUs, electronic distributor, 3.44 diff., 10" wheels, disc brakes. I've been told it will leave the traffic lights like a motor bike

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

In Melbourne that means they leave when the lights are still red but the road ahead is reasonably clear. They need to do this to catch the push bike that has already gone through against the red light.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

But Graham I think TK has a valid point. How much money does it cost to modify an 1100 to get it to perform like this, and then you have raised the stress on components that have less performance potential than that found in the 1275. Going directly down the 1275 route leaves plenty more potential to move up in power down the track if that's what he decides to do at a later date. I just see it as a false economy unless for some reason you are bound to only use an 1100 engine.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Ummmm why do you say that? A nitride 1275 crank may have been thrashed to within an inch of its life!

Blocks are mostly the same...and by boring out the 1100 you are making it a little more square which is a good thing...everything is 40 years old so it all needs to be tiddlyed up no matter what bore and stroke...etc

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"Show me the Mini!"

I think its just a bit of fun.

1275's a done deal, I like the challenge of a small bore as well. I have a 998 in my Cooper which zips like a motorbike engine with all the mods. Its a lot of fun and I won't cry if a 998 throws a leg out of bed.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Micks right.
Well you can spend $2100 (machining and purchase) on a 1098 and get 100bhp and 80ft of torque or you can spend $3500 (same machining costs and extra 1275 purchase costs) on a 1275 and get 160bhp and 120ft of torque.
Then worst case, lets say a year later something goes bang and the block or crank (or both) gets damaged, you can either spend another $100 on small bore parts or $500 (if you're lucky) on 1275 parts...

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Hi Low n blown
Ok so we go out and buy a 1275 or you bring your 1275 to me to re build, pistons same price bore the block dearer to bore the small bore to 68mm I have to take 3 cuts for each bore because of the offset and the amount of metal to be removed I charge $220 to bore the 68mm but if I have to off set the 1275 to get it out to a 1380 type bore I charge $200, but my bore and hone are not like most reco shops, my motors don't breath that's why I only use a 1/2 ins breather on my race engines.
grind the cam same price for any grind to plug the block and head $50 each to deck the block and head for either motor $50 no matter how much you want to take off.
Cylinder head most people want to fit Cooper S valves to their 940 head so valves are much the same cutting the seats same price you still have to buy a carbie of some sort same price, exhaust same price, how we lookin so far .
Iv'e built quite a few 1100's and if you prep the crank right they go for ever, well I have not had one brake yet, but iv'e had a few 1275 crack.
So when it's all boiled down there is not much in it.
Oh I nearly for got my little panel van has only go drum brakes and i'll put it up against you cooper s brakes any time they may fade after about 3 high speed stops (110ks) but they have plenty of stoping power round town, and yes they do take a little more up keep than the discs, but that's the fun of owing a mini.
Graham Russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

All interesting Graham but not sure why the block needs to be taken out to 1380 to produce the similar horsepower because we are talking like for like horsepower. The small bore rods also have there inherent problems at the little end which yes may be overcome by swapping to 1275 rods or modifying the little end, again costing money. So now we have 1275 head, 1275 rods (or more modified rods) so this 1100 engine is starting to add up in cost, and yes there are shortcomings of the small bore crank as you say. Any engine builder will say there is no substitute for cubic inches. Added to which there is still more potential left in the 1275 to obtain further power increases.

So as you say there is little difference in cost between the 2 so again I ask why would anyone want to choose a highly modified 1100 engine over a less modified 1275 to produce the same result for similar money and to still retain an inferior product. If we are chasing a performance product why did the factory opt to upgrade to a 1275 rather than stick with the 1098, or even more relevant why develop the 1071 as a performance option.



Then we take into account the potential re-sale value of the car. A car with a 1275 is a more marketable commodity than one with an 1100 period.

Just out of interest what is one of these high horsepower 1100 engines going to cost the consumer? Is it a cost effective modification for us to consider?

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Anything from any sized engine "may" have been thrashed. This is irrelevant, lets not make assumptions but base the advise we give someone on facts.

There is more to an engine than a block.

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

I think the main issue is the availability of the 1275 engines. Near impossible to find one in tassie. Regardless of what ever engine you rebuild the cost will be close to the same. Only only difference being the initial cost and the availability for the base engine.
For years now most have only worried about modifying large bore engines when realistically there would be more smallbores out there.
Many people with 1275's on the road would have 90-100hp and thats enough for them to have a bit of fun. What GR has done has given all those that aren't lucky enough to have a 1275 under their bonnet an option of producing power to keep up with their mates. They might not have the pub points but they will arrive at the same time!

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Hi Low n blown
I didn't say you had to take the 1275 out to 1380 I just gave you a price on boring motors and comparing heads, no one said any thing about putting a 1275 head on a small bore I was just comparing prices between the two, and tell me more about this weakness in the small rods I have not broken one up at the little end and I have built a lot of small bores, we have had some high hp 1100 turbo charged that have done a lot of miles and not had a problem with rod breakage.
the question was what do you have to do to a 1100 to get the power of a 1275 and cost I think I answered that and it still cheaper than buying a 1275 and doing it up, and lets face it 1275 are getting harder to find and getting more expensive and I can tell you this they are getting harder to find in the UK and more expensive than they were a few years back.
Not every body that buy a mini with a small bore in can afford to run out and buy a1275 reco it and buy disc brakes for it, in case you haven't noticed there are a lot of young mini guys out there that don't have a lot of money to throw around and this is a cheaper way to go.
Graham Russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

OK point taken. As I asked how much is this cheaper option 1100cc engine???

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car