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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 3:05 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Wollongong NSW
9YaTaH wrote:
Stop beating yourself up James...a blown head gasket etc can cause damage very quickly so unless you are constantly watching the Temp Gauge and ignoring everything else like your speed or the road ahead, anyone can get caught out :?


I'm more annoyed just because my gauge read wrong. Pretty much always read quite high even when it was confirmed it was running at a good temp. The only real temp gauge I had was 'Do you smell that?'.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 3:26 pm 
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Just for those who might not know...the capillary tube should never be twisted, anywhere (especially near the sender bulb or the input to the gauge)...

and "coils" used to dress the excess tube should be around 80mm minimum diameter.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 7:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:59 pm
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Location: Western Sydney
Thanks for all the info everyone.
I want to install my two gauges (water temp and oil pressure) reasonably discreetly.
I want to fit them under the parcel shelf but no matter where you put them they will be obscured by the steering wheel.
I'm thinking of fitting them near the drivers door under the parcel shelf.

Image

I should still be able to see them by moving my head a bit but at least it will keep the interior as standard looking as possible.
What do others do ?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 1:49 pm 
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I have mine on the right side under the parcel shelf. I don't have a problem seeing the gauges
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 9:53 am 
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Location: Muswellbrook -- NSW
Phil 850 wrote:
Thanks for all the info everyone.
I want to install my two gauges (water temp and oil pressure) reasonably discreetly.
I want to fit them under the parcel shelf but no matter where you put them they will be obscured by the steering wheel.
I'm thinking of fitting them near the drivers door under the parcel shelf.

Image

I should still be able to see them by moving my head a bit but at least it will keep the interior as standard looking as possible.
What do others do ?


Just be mindful of where you have to access the hole in the firewall ,could make installation easier .


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 12:13 pm 
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The hole that would have been handy on the left hand side where the brake/clutch master cylinders would be for left hand drive cars has a plate welded over it. Made a nice stiffening plate for the engine steady though.
I may have to drill a hole (or two) to run the gauge lines.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 4:18 pm 
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timmy201 wrote:
I have mine on the right side under the parcel shelf. I don't have a problem seeing the gauges
Image


Fine if you don't mind slicing your shins in an accident....the same gauge bracket would work mounted under the top dash board rail :idea:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:59 am 
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It just gives the junior doctors something to do while the specialist removes the steering column from your chest :|
I understand your concern, but I'm thinking of mounting them under the parcel shelf as I think they are less conspicuous there.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:08 am 
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Phil 850 wrote:
It just gives the junior doctors something to do while the specialist removes the steering column from your chest :|
I understand your concern, but I'm thinking of mounting them under the parcel shelf as I think they are less conspicuous there.


Steering column goes thru the windscreen, not your chest.
Been there, seen this happen. (Xmas 1965). :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:23 am 
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The other good reason for the gauges being there is that's where the grommet is.

It's a flimsy holder with a folded edge anyway, I'm sure it'll be the last thing to worry about in a collision!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 25, 2014 9:29 am 
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998cc
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Location: Western Sydney
Hi all
Pulled out the old electric temp sensor from the head and found that my head has a seat in it for the mechanical gauge bulb.
Image
Shoved the bulb in and it bottomed out before reaching the seat so I took a few measurements.
Image
As you can see, without the TE05 adaptor the bulb will hit inside the head by about 3mm :|
With the TE05 the bulb should clear by ~10mm if the TE05 is screwed in all the way up to its shoulder. If it doesn't go all the way in there will be even more clearance.
Thanks all for pointing out these differences in heads so my install should go smoothly.

PS
Merry Christmas everyone and thanks for all the assistance. :D

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 2:57 pm 
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I have completed fitting my temp gauge and then started fitting the mechanical oil pressure gauge.
I screwed in the Tee piece and the pressure light switch into the end of it all OK.
But then the adaptor for the capillary would not allow the hose nut to be screwed to it and still clear the engine block.
I did buy the fancy braided hose from Minispares and this has a particularly large swivel nut on the end.
What have others done ?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 5:10 pm 
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reviving an old thread

my temp gauage decided to stay still at zero this morning. It's a few years old now so am guessing it is buggered?

are teher any simple tests to see if it is the gauge or something more serious? the car is not losing anf fluids nor getting hot.

I checked out a replacement gauage today but also wanted to check the thread that goes into the block - the one at supercrap for the adaptor was -outside thread 3/8 - 18 NPTF and inside thread 1/8 - 27 NPTF

is this the right size for a 998 Mini Matic engine?

if not, anyone got a working spare they'd care to part with please?

cheers, Steve

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 5:53 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
An easy test is to pop the sender into a hot pot of water (Its mechanical right? With a bulb?). It will move. The closer it is to boiling, the better, as this will push the needle full scale deflection.

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