I finally got my 1978 1275 LS on club plates.

Problem is that my speedo is over reading by 10 K's consistantly at all speeds.
Do you guys think it's the speedo or the drive gear in gear box housing at the end of the speedo cable.

Any advise will be appreciated

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1967 Morris mini Deluxe
1968 Buick Riviera
1979 HZ Kingswood
1979 CM Valiant
1982 Jaguar XJ6 series 3
2002 VX HSV
2013 Mazda 6
2018 Gt Mustang

All Oz Minis had the same drive gears in the gearbox, unlike Rovers in UK.
We changed the speedo head for different diff ratios.
So, more likely it's the speedo head.
Does it measure distance correctly? If so it's the right speedo head, just get it calibrated. Or, fit a GPS like I did.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sometimes if the speedo head 'mechanism' is a bit gunked upit can cause them to read high. It gets in around magnet/disc area. I clean them with contact cleaner spray then light spray of good brand WD type spray.

This will probably be frowned upon as being bodgy but mine was consistently hi. I figure over years the very fine spring that the holds the needle to zero weakens.

See if you can open the speedo to access the needle and are able to have it free from the zero rest pin.

Note where the needle rests when not touching the rest pin.

Gently push/rotate the needle anticlockwise by gradually increasing amounts, each time check to see if the natural rest point has moved to a poition equivalent to say 5-10kph. It might take some trial and error.

I did this with my large early style speedo and now its quite accurate. I don't know how this might work with a Leyland style speedo and as I say probably a bit bodgy so try this at your own risk.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

I have a recent 200KMH Smiths (so called) speedo in mine. It is for a 3.444 diff, but I'm currently running a 3.647. So, it should read fast.. right?
Well.. it did, at first. Now, after 20K Km, it's consistently reading 10KMH slow. But the distance is still reading high, go figure.
Needle is steady, so.. I dunno.
So, I'm about to replace it with a real Smiths 140KMH one [800 turns/km], out of a Moke.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooo

Kitchen table (away from all the magnetic swarf in your garage), a hand made tool made from a hack saw blade and you VERY carefully coax the iron fillings off the magnet and drag cup assembly and anywhere else you see em.

If partially disassembled, you can then carefully clean out old gunk on the drive gear and odometer cam with contact cleaner (say) then sparingly coat with Moly Grease (do not over grease).

Do not overgrease the speed cable, especially up near the head...

[EDIT: I drew a tool ]

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"Show me the Mini!"

It reads consistently Leave it Don't touch a thing

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"Show me the Mini!"

No problem with that, so long as you are super gentle clamping (pointy flat nosed pliers) the spindle to turn the pointer (except that in some speedos you may reach a point where you run out of spring tension and the pointer will no longer return to rest...moving the pointer to a new position may also effect the linearity...so when you are happy at say 100Km/Hr, might be a good idea to check accuracy at some other speeds...)

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"Show me the Mini!"

Actually that's not what i meant but that would work. (Probably better). Ie you were able to reposition the needle on the spindle 10kmh less.

I couldn't budge my needle loose from the spindle, so I just wound the needle backward against the spring, effectively tightening the spring and therefore decreasing the speed.

If it's consistantly out then repositioning the needle on the spindle would be the ideal solution.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

The needles are just a simple interference fit on the end of the spindle...but...if one has been on and off too many times and becomes loose...someone (who will remain nameless) may have glued it back on)

When carefully turning the needle a small amount or pulling the needle off, you should "clamp" the spindle to avoid damage to locating jewels, whatever

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"Show me the Mini!"

I'm not sure that this is always the case. There are at least two major styles of speedo. The early 850s and the late Mokes used UK built speedos, which have a different mechanism. Their needles seem to be much more strongly attached than in the Australian built speedos which were used in the 'in-between' years.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

Im on me second speedo had the same prob with the first on that come with the car

Its a 74 model even changed the cable at the same time when i changed speedo same problem as the first one i just use a gps still like i did with the first speedo

Sure...my advice was fairly general motors in nature

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"Show me the Mini!"

Don't worry about fixing it, the cop will tell you how fast you were going.

Is this a typical 1275ls thing?
I remember driving one a long time ago and the speedo was incorrect (unsure if it read over or under). The story I was told is it will be incorrect as it's the same equipment as a std mini but with 12" wheels fitted.
Not sure about the story as I'm sure to meet ADRs it would have to be correct at the time it left the factory.deanna.
Is it different gearing on the speedo or the gearbox? If it's in the speedo could it have been swapped with an earlier 10" wheel speedo?
Just a thought?!

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Justin