Good Morning everyone,

I have a query, I'm doing my floor pans, inner & outer A panels, nose panel etc etc. all the standard destroyed rust spots.

my question is has anyone tried using body adhesive on any of with in conjunction with welding, or even just body adhesive itself.

I ask this because I am not the worlds best welder (more likely to be the worlds worst) and panel shops are trying to charge me $8,000+ for just the welding (I'm supplying the parts).

any thoughts/experience would be greatly appreciated.

thankyou,
Shaun

on a side note, I will be making a 'wanted' parts list very soon, which will have nearly every possible part on it as most of what I have is to damaged/old to be used again. this is for a 1967 Cooper S MK2

With the quality of new parts today, trust me your better off reconditioning your original stuff!

Doogir

_________________
I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

Gee, you must need a lot of welding done for that amount. My suggestion is get some old metal and practice welding, you'll not only save money, you'll perfect a skill you can use a lot more. Also on the point of adhesives, I wouldn't bother, just weld it up and seal with sicaflex, she'll be good as new.

You want to get one of these bad boys! No skills required really for the welding part...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/240-Volt-Por ... 51cb62176e

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I'm hoping to find original parts that have already been reconditioned as my bumpers etc are just to far gone to be redone (well to $$!)

all I have needing to be done is front floor pans, inner and outer a panels and the nose. with a bit around the toe board and side. really not 8grand worth but they seem to think so!

I looked at spot welders, would be good for some of the spots like the nose . but floor pans/a panels would require a full bead?

has anyone tried using the adhesive? I've read a lot of good things about it and seem to be a lot cleaner. although more expensive then welding. I would still weld the floor pans tho.

cheers
shaun

Registration authorities here don't even like brazing of repair these days, they would take a dim view of using adhesives instead.
Many panels on a Mini (including the ones you mention) are a structural part of the car. They need to be welded.
Hint: Buy a MIG welder and do a sheet metal welding course. It'll be worth it.

Of course you could re-shell it, however in Australia the donor shell retains its identity (850 Deluxe or K), you can't bung all the S stuff in and sell it as a real S like the Brits apparently can. But sell as an S replica, yes.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Where you from?

_________________
The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

I don't think they would look on glues very kindly.

If its a car that is designed and certified through ADR tests with a bond, then that is fine, but to re-engineer a car replacing welds with glues then I don't think they will even look at it. No MVR lackey will cast an eye over it without extensive engineers reports.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I would steer clear of adhesives. As the Doc said the panels are welded for a reason.

_________________
1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

I have been using SEM 39747 Multipurpose panel adhesive to attach new drip rails under the roof gutters and on the front bumper flange, which are usually spot-welded but are a regular rust site. The glue is good on unstressed parts where it acts as a complete seal against water/rust. There are youtube videos from SEM and others showing how adhesive AND welding can be used to comply with original design specifications.
Go with peterb and drmini and buy a MIG welder if you think you will be serious about finishing the repairs.
Bill

@boomini I'm in Perth

thanks for all your thoughts on the adhesive idea, I do have a MIG welder I just really hate welding. I've always been more of a driveline/suspension builder. definitely not patient enough for the art of welding!

was really hoping the adhesive would solve my problems but definitely don't want it to not get over the pits! (not that I'm planning on putting it through the pits)

i'll keep an eye out on shells. but finding one that is completely rust free and the colour I want will be almost impossible I think.

Hey shaun. Im in perth and do body repairs and mechanical repairs from home. I would be happy to have a look and quote if you like..

Rodney

_________________
The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

that'd be good boomini

I've pm'd you

slight hijack - where are you getting the new drip rails?

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Have you considered doing a short course at tafe on welding? Here in victoria we have lots of tafes offering night courses, not sure about WA.

For $8000 you can buy a good mig and do a lot of Tafe courses.

_________________
Lindsay Palmer
06 Mazda SP23
80 Alfa GTV (weekend toy)
86 626 Turbo (daily drive, now stolen)
71 cooper s replica
69 cooper replica
76 clubman
62 english 850
68 Mini Auto