how do you get the air out of the limiting valve? it seems to be designed to retain an air pocket.

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Roundy Sedan project with/for daughter

I've never had a problem, but push the pedal gently with the bleed nipple open. Any bubbles will bleed out with the fluid. If you stand on it too hard the valve will seal off and it won't bleed.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey folk, I've been in hibernation for a while & not done anything to my poor Brick for too long.

Anyway, this seems like a reasonably suitable thread to hijack rather than starting a new one, so here goes.

Prior to going into hibernation, I did some brake work, starting with fitting a booster, then replacing the 7.5" front discs with Metro 8.4" four-pots. It took a while to get the new fronts bled up to pressure, but I got there. And that's when I discovered the rear brakes were locked on. Hibernation began after that....

Roll up to the last couple of days & I've managed to get the rear drums adjusted off & pulled apart, but now they're not coming on, but I have good pedal pressure.

Do I have:
a) stuffed rear wheel cylinders?
b) the wrong sized rear cylinders due to the four-pots up front?
c) the wrong-sized master cylinder for the four-pots?
d) bias valve needing adjustment?
e) a combination of the above?

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You're only supposed to blow the BLUDDY DOORS OFF!!

Take the drums off and check to see if the pads are extending and retracting. Then try bleeding the rear cylinder.
If that doesn't work, move forward up the line from there with trying to bleed the front of the rear brake hoses by loosening the connection a little, and then the front connection to the rear brake limiter under the rear sub frame.

You should find the blockage there somewhere.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Well I had another check; I'm getting fluid flow right through, so apparently no blockage, but there's no movement of the shoes. So would I be correct in concluding the cylinders are stuffed?

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You're only supposed to blow the BLUDDY DOORS OFF!!

yes they will be seized, if fluid hasn't been changed for a while they can seize up very quickly.
thats why I renew all brake lines and rubbers and put DOT5 (silicon based) fluid in any vehicle that isn't a daily driver.
don't have to worry about spills on paintwork either.

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Roundy Sedan project with/for daughter

Sounds like seized cylinders. Just buy new ones, make them 5/8" (Cooper S) if you have front discs.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks chaps, it seems a visit to my local Mini shop is in order.

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You're only supposed to blow the BLUDDY DOORS OFF!!