I'm with the Doc on the Innova. Very nice piece of kit.

I've got a 5568 - http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ino-5568/overview/

You're welcome to come and check it out if you want poeee.

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Cheers,
Rod.
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'63 Morris 850 (Old Secondhand CAR)

Thanks Rod. Will let you know, but I think I'll just buy one.

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My brother bought a stanley one. It's rubbish - it's a re-branded no-name, too expensive for what it is, no dial-back.

Yeah what is this black box thing everyone keeps talking about?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

It allows you to use your existing dizzy and coil, but you remove the advance and let the black box do it for you. Allows you to map your own timing curves.

http://www.accuspark.co.uk/Blackbox.htm

Think of it as one step above an electronic dizzy, and one step below something like a megajolt.

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Here's the thread on the Black Box:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=83483

Edit: just bought the timing light too, oops!

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Hmmm. Ok interesting. My dizzy is currently locked up anyways. So this may come in handy?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

It allows you you to check if the mechanical and vacuum advance are within manufacturers specs.

It allows you (after disconnecting the vac `advance') to time the engine at the full centrifugal advance point, which is better for the engine than timing it static and praying that the advance curve is still good after 40+ years (hint: it's not).
Static advance degree setting is the least important point in the advance map.
[edit] and you do this with only a TDC mark, no need for putting 30deg or so advance marks down the front of the timing cover.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hmmmm. Interesting. So this works ok with a locked dizzy with no vac advance connected and pertronix module fitted? Ken Nelson recurved my dizzy.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Yes, both Mick and I are running like this. We are using Powerspark modules but a Pertronix will work just fine.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The dial back and digital types are ok for most classic cars but just beware they don't work with MSD multi spark type set ups (such as MSD6AL). For these I use a conventional inductive light with good old Mallory timing tape on the harmonic balancer.

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

My timing light turned up today. Just checking I've got the idea to check the total advance:
Warm up engine
Disconnect vacuum advance and plug up
Hold engine at top revs
Select advance required on timing light
Line up pointer and tdc timing mark?

Next question.. how much total advance should a nearly standard 998 have?

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No need to plug the vac up for testing.
No need for top revs, just go beyond max advance seen. 4000 is plenty.
Set it to 30deg for starters, but optimum could be between 28 and 32deg. Play with it, use your seat of da pants dyno.
If it runs rough or pings it has too much advance.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.