re above post ^^^
The stock AP clutch plate has wavy bits in the middle, they take up smoother than the AP bonded & rivetted plate which is solid.
I like the stock AP one for road use.
[edit] current ones have an almost black facing, it works good. Years ago there were brown ones, with a bit of heat they took on the look and performance of hardwood.

There used to be cheapo aftermarket `cardboard-like' plates about, they were rubbish and renowned for clutch judder.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That might explain mine - I've always had issues with clutch judder. It was replaced by the PO, but the backing plate wasn't machined, so I shortened the lugs. It helped, but it does still judder in all gears after warming up. My mechanic couldn't figure out why either.

vehicle is fitted with 4 pot callipers and vented 7.9" discs

I will drive it again this weekend and get it hot again and confirm how it is at low speed in first gear also just to be 100% sure, it may have only done reverse as I was parking in the garage but the whole drive in a little bit of traffic it was ok, maybe my main mounts are softer than I think...

I will report back later

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Does it have drums on the rear? It has happened to me previously when I didn't adjust one of the rear drums properly

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2015 Ducati 899 Panigale

I did a restoration on an old Austin 7, it had masonite rivoted to flywheel/pressure plate. BTW, they have no linings on disc.

ok bit more of an update after taking the old girl out for a 100mile run on Saturday.

shudders both forward and reverse, just a little more noticeable in reverse as you are doing a bit more slipping low speed stuff.

I think it is a case of pulling the clutch out and having a good old look, lucky I can do in sitchu with having no inner guard, will replace the lower engine mounts while there.

Grant

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Yep, sounds like what I've had for years. I'm just used to it now. but if you find the problem, let us know!

Bet it is oil on the plate.

I have checked for that, I needed to disassemble my clutch to get to the gearbox. There was no leakage, the straps were still straight and the diaphragm flat.

The factory had issues with clutch shudders all along,,, more predominant with the potty type inners

they had a clutch-cover (wok) """alignment tool""" also to help center the throw-out bearing with the crank, prior to fitting the flywheel/clutch assy.... they then doweled those covers to the primary case,,, the later Woks are a loose fit exactly for that reason

they also made the "self-centering" type throw-out-bearing carrier to help even more

however,,, if the flywheel/clutch assy has not been centered perfectly (on the bench before fitting to the engine) &/or the wok is not aligned carefully with the center-line of the crank,,, then you will need (at least) to sort those 2 issues,,, providing what you say about engine mounting & steadys being perfect of course,,, as others have suggested,,, a slight shudder is exaggerated by sloppy engine & exhaust mounts.

there are also issues with bent back plates (Bowed) & miss-aligned flywheel centers (on 2 piece flywheels of course)

there are soooo many things to tick off the list of checks, so it`s simply a matter of eliminating all of them

keep us informed if you`re continuing to cure the problem,,,

don`t forget that covering symptoms doesn`t cure the cause

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Well its only been a year or so from I first put this up and finally I have the car sorted.
I was sure there was no oil or grease on the friction plate and I had to bite the bullet and pull the clutch cover off and look at the diaphragm and see how it looked, spring looked just prior to flat all still installed, but a little hard to see perfectly well, pulled the diaphragm off and all looked fine, could not see anything too obvious, as the double grey diaphragm is now NLA fitted a new grey and put it all back together and took her for a good spin up the putty road where it would get nice and hot on a long drive with a good drive and a bit of boost and she seems very good, still a very mild amount but nothing like it was, so soon enough I will pull it apart again and fit a new friction plate and machine the faces etc and put it all back together.

now on another note, does anyone have a secret stash of the original style (correct type) clutch thrust bearing, mine is a little noisy and next time I will replace it with the friction plate.

thanks

Grant

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Can't find any of them Grant. Mine's also noisy and it's a Timkin. Let me know what you end up doing. Apparently just use a newer type and fill it up with moly is supposed to be OK?

Timken part numbers are IR-127 (I THINK) or 3W5-8 (but I think that's the mini part number)

Here's a pic of the original I had:

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I had access to them a few years ago, but they ran out. Someone else had a heap but I think sold them all to Minisport SA...

I wonder about machining a little hat and pressing it on to the new type to spread the load on the thrust plate

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Graham Russell does this for his race motors. I think you would need to make it from SAE1045 or similar, then flame harden it. Or it'll get chewed up by the hard thrust plate on the diaphragm.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

In case it helps others locate the original style thrust bearing I acquired this NOS one last year, made by The Green Ball Bearing Company in USA. I'll put it in when the engine is stripped so I hope it's the right size and application. I'm assuming it is good quality too.

You can see the BMC part number 22A1156 and Green number CB-2029 on the face.

Google brought up this - http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREEN-BEARING-N ... 43ef2948df

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43