55A. 1098 Block - 100112082


55A. 1098 Gearbox - 22G1128 & (22/12135)

55A. 1098 Gearbox - (22/12135)


AND

Also the 998 Block.

55B. 998 Block - 99H905AIH004734


55B. 998 Gearbox - 22G1832


55B. 998 Gearbox internals. Looks Good


Thanks

Late 1098 on a 4 synch remote box. Nice gearbox to have

Clubman 998 on a 4 synch rod box

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However the gearbox on 55a has had the remote change diff cover smashed.

Do look at the dog teeth (the rows of small pointed teeth) if loads are chipped or rounded off the gear attached to them is toast.

Thanks timmy,

But how can I found out for curiosity sakes, the age and what car these two were fitted to? And what makes it a nice box?


re the smashed cover, will that mean a complete new diff housing?
I'll have a closer look at the teeth, but on a brief glance it looks as though possibly only the extremity of the tongue is damaged, shifter mechanism tucked in is still intact.

Yeah late clubman s had them

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The 1100 motor is from a Clubman or Leyland Mini. I think it would be late 72 or early 73.
The gearbox would be the matching one that it was made with.

The 998 is probably from a very late Mini or Moke. I'm thinking it is a Moke but I don't have all the numbers. Somewhere between 78 and 82 is my guess.

The 4 synch remote were fitted to the K and Cooper S models. They are the only "remote" shift to have synchro on first gear.

The remote gearboxes have a long alloy extension which acts like a big engine steady. The rod change boxes are less secure and need extra engine steadies to stop them rocking.

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Leyland minis and also Clubman GT's

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Mokes and Vans used the same box too. (with a different shift but the same housings)

You can see on this image the diff cover is a little longer and provides threads for two of the locating bolts on the extension tube. Yours has been broken off at some point. You can try replacing the diff cover or repairing it of you have the broken off bit. Replacing the cover is a black art as they are bored together at the factory so no two gearboxes will have exactly the same fit on the housings. People have successfully swapped them before though.

The small dog teeth were explained to me like this. Imagine you have two sharp pencils, when you try to push them together the points slide past each other easily. Now strike the points off and try to push them together, the don't slide past each other as easily. If the points are chewed up on the dog teeth you will have trouble shifting as the dogs don't slide past each other as easily.

The other problem with the dog teeth is they are short when new, any chewing up shortens them further (both the gear and the synchro hub outer sleeve) then they can wear at an angle and jump out of gear. Particularly on overrun.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks guys that's great, extremely informative from all of the above. ^^^ Appreciate all the help I've had in this thread, It's been fantastic

I'll have a look at the dog teeth on the 1098 in due course, but for now I'm going to (very) slowly have a crack at rebuilding the 998 Block & Box as a learning curve.
I've already purchased an Engine stand, also made a lifting bracket today from plans on this forum, and hopefully will also make myself a engine stand bracket - block to fit the block and stand with plans too from this forum. Wish me luck, in deep now no backing out!

Stuffed dogs look like this. If you find you've for two good gear sets pm me, I'm looking to a decent second gear.