Well I'd had enough of the whining and moaning, i went down and boiled the kettle and got the Dyno sheets out of the printer.
These are the result for the Big head, Big cam and Downdraft Webber.
Mr Bikkie Bandit will be chuffed that he made me do something.
He'll have to wait for the article, some of us have work to do....

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120hp is crazy!

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Was the head the 202 or 295?

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67 Deluxe under going full resto

202
http://russellengineering.com.au/project-68mm-part-3/

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Wow that would make a fun road engine!

Hi All,
Found the miss in the motor that was getting worse the longer it was run. It was a tiny little hole that just got bigger and bigger and finally filled the cylinder with water. This is what happen when you play with 50 year old cylinder heads rusting away from inside.
I'm think about shrinking Aaron down like ANT MAN to go in and have a look. Maybe he can block it up from the inside with some of the crap he goes on with..... I'm not going in there cause its too dark and scary and all those rust monsters might get me, and I have too much work to do to get munched by them. Aaron, well he can he go in, cause we don't need him.


Graham Russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

Get the oxy and the nickel bronze rod out Graham. It fixed my 1275LS head when I hit water, right where Vizard said.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'd like to see you try and shrink me down to the size of Antman, you're gonna need a bloody big drier for that to work.

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Hi All,

Here's a photo of a 202 cylinder head mounted on a +80 bore. This shows how the cylinder head flows looking from inside the bore.
I like my macro camera

Graham Russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

that is a lovely torque curve, many a 1275 would be jealous let alone a small block... good picture too !!!!!... As an aside, GR what cam/timing factors help a cam continue to make torque past peak..... this cam does, others i have seen are good , but then drop off the edge really quickly..... in the old skool days some drag people ( as in the cars not the clothes) used to add more exhaust duration to keep the torque up there after peak was achieved? .... only wondering because it seems as our parts are getting smoother and lighter it is becoming relatively common to rev out to 8000 plus where the older cams were designed to peak say at 7500.... so those that hold on a bit longer are a good find..... keep up the good work and keep the pressure on that aaron..... thanks to both for sharing

Great photo.

Now, can you get your macro camera to take a shot on the compression stroke just as the plug fires? I'd like to see what happens inside the chamber on combustion.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Hi FNQ
Cam design has come a long way since the 60's that's why I keep saying get out of the 60's and into the 21 century, the old cams are good but lazy when it comes to getting the valve open, we have learned a lot more about controlling the lifter and valve with the faster opening cams and more about getting the lifter across the nose radius without loosing control and landing in no mans land.
To carry the torque through you have to fill the cylinder and that all comes back to cam design, if you have a look at some of the older race cam designs they open a lot slower than some of my road cams, but the used wider lobe centres and more duration to get it to rev, iv'e got cams with 290 duration that will make solid HP at 9000 150 + but that's not what I want, I want to make that kind of power down at 7000 to 7500 RPM.
As for adding more duration on the exhaust that's done when you have poor flowing exhaust ports, old school, on my new 266ss I run more on the ex. because of the restriction in the ex of the small bore motors, that cam may even work better ground around the other way.
You will notice that the 274 cam is smaller on the ex this also helps make more torque, and a lot of my race cams are the same way,but i'm still learning about cam design along with every one else, and I love the challenge, it can only lead to better things.
Graham Russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

Hi Doug
That's why i'm trying to shrink Aaron down to the size of ANT MAN so we can shove him in there with his camera to see what happens when it all goes bang.
Graham Russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

Hi Graham
In the photo above, is the combustion chamber in the head cut out past the bore of the cylinder.
When the valve is fully open the exhaust/inlet gases must have a torturous path around the outside of the valve and then back inside the cylinder (if that description makes sense).
Isn't the cylinder now shrouding the valve even though the combustion chamber doesn't ?
This is just my perception as your engine certainly produces the goods !

Phil

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

HI Phill
The chamber does not over hang the bore but it is right on the edge, if you have a look at the way the air enters the cylinder in the mini head, it actually directed away from the side of the cylinder, where as most 2 valve heads with one port per valve aim the air at the side of the to get it to swirl around the cylinder to make like a twister to help with the burning
(flame travel)the bigger the storm in the cylinder the better the burn, that's why squish area is very important to help with the flame travel,mini have a lot of squish area.
When I flow heads on my flow bench I use a tube the size of the bore to get the best results and buy feeding a piece of string into the bore you can see what the air is doing leaving the valve and how it is swirling around the cylinder.
Graham russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"