Hi

Having just purchased a twin tank mini with a leaded head.

What is the process for filling the tanks?

Fill each one separately and then add the lead additive?

I have read that they have a habit of leaking so I guess filling to 3/4 is the max?

Also how many litres does each tank hold so I can add the correct amount of additive?

I put the additive in first but it doesn't really matter. Could do it afterwards. I use 1 capful (off the 1L bottle) of Flashlube per 5L of fuel.
I then fill the LH tank with fuel, then the RH one.
Make sure your caps seal, I never fill right up either unless going for a long cruise.

Tanks hold about 25L each when full to brim.

[edit] If it leaks with new caps, the tank necks are buggered from villains prying locking caps off in the past.
Can be fixed by welding new neck repair pieces on.
[edit] You can either modify a `fake filler neck' like I did, or buy a neck repair piece which I believe is available from Minikingdomonline.com.au

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thank you DrMini

I have a flashlube kit under the bonnet it puts it straight in the carby https://www.autobarn.com.au/flashlube-v ... acuum-fvsk
You can get them at any auto shop and your better off buying flashlube in 5 litre bottles

I'd be very tempted to whip the head off, get it reco'd you'll get extra power and get the exhaust seats inserts. Then you don't need to muck around. Then again you could just run straight unleaded till the exhaust valve seat and valve loose sealing.

I run Flashlube in my 1360, because 15 years ago when the exhaust seats were worn, I fitted bigger exhaust valves instead of inserts. It is a race head with big ports. Not many places here reliably fitted inserts to A series back then.
I have NOT recut the valves or seats since, whenever the head is off it just needs a wire brush. Seats and valves ars shiny.
The stuff works, whether you inject it or dose the tanks.

OTOH some years ago I deliberately recut valves and seats on my son's 998 Clubby head, then got him to drive 6 months with NO additive. To see what would happen.
Then I took it off, found the red hot exhaust valves have pulled chunks of iron out of the seats..! If nobody believes me I still have the head here.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

And I keep saying that if you hadn't cut the seats it would have lasted just like my old 1100 head did. It went for about 8 years without any additive.

Yeah the seat pitting is the legacy of lead free. Still if the engine is an unknown like this thread, running flash lube may be a feelgood thing only.

I add flashlube as insurance, even though I have hardened seats.

Don't just rely on `lead memory' any more, it's long gone. When did unleaded fuel come in? 1988??
Most of us with a performance Mini or 1100 have reconditioned the head since then.

Once you replace the valves or recut the seats, all bets are off. I proved that unprotected, the iron seats in the head are toasted in 6 months local running about.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Back when unleaded was introduced into the UK, BP ran a test program. They used a A Series as it was judged most likely to show up any problems.

If kept below 50 mph (and presumably restricting revs during acceleration) there wasn't a problem. Sustained cruising over 50 toasted the engine in only a few motorway runs....

At around $16 per thousand litres of treated fuel I reckon Flashlube is a pretty good deal...

Cheers, Ian