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 Post subject: My balls have fallen out
PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 3:59 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:59 pm
Posts: 1045
Location: Western Sydney
I have started rebuilding my gearbox and have the 3rd motion shaft and 1st motion shaft in.
I was checking that I could select all gears and pushed the 4th gear selector with the selector rod along and it went into 4th but the 3-4th synchro went so far that it exposed the synchroniser balls and springs and out they came. :(
1- how do I get them back in. I've tried with my fingers but no success. Any ideas ?
2- why was the synchro able to go so far to expose them ? I don't have the detent springs/balls or the Gate installed. Is this the only reason :|

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 4:06 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Mon May 03, 2004 6:46 pm
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Location: ADL
:lol: we all make that mistake.

Yes, the shift rods and forks hold and limit the travel so this can't happen in the gearbox.

Regarding the springs and balls... I usually get the gear in a vice and use three small screwdrivers/punches - one against my stomach; the other two with my hands, and when they are pushed in far enough the hub slides over.
It's a little bit finnicky, but easy enough.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 4:19 pm 
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848cc
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Location: TOWNSVILLE NQ
Use a hose clamp like ring compressor and slide the outer hub down pushing the clamp with it.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 4:27 pm 
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998cc
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Stibbsy wrote:
Use a hose clamp like ring compressor and slide the outer hub down pushing the clamp with it.

That's what I was considering.
Will have to buy a 2-1/2" hose clamp tomorrow.
Thought I might flatten a piece of wire and push it under the hose clamp like a wedge to push the balls in a bit further to allow the hub to slide over easier.
Is this worth the effort Stibbsy

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 4:49 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Sandy Bay, Tasmania
I did it like this. Put a little grease on the ends of the springs, put them in, and put the balls in afterwards. The grease sticks and stops them from rolling out. I then put the outer selecter hub flat on the counter, and get the inner hub (with the springs and balls) and slide it over the top. It will rest on the balls between the two parts. Then, applying pressure to the inner hub, get a punch or nail (just something strong and thin) and push each ball in. When the ball goes in, the hub will slide in a little more. Keep the pressure on the inner hub and just push each ball one after the other, and eventually the inner hub will slide straight in.

If you're worried about releasing it and spring the balls everywhere again, put the whole thing in a plastic bag first, so it it does happen, they will be contained in the bag.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 5:48 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I got an old 1-2 synchro hub outer ring and used the 4" angle grinder (with a well worn wheel) to put three ~45deg chamfers in one side, spaced @ 120deg apart. It works for both 1-2 and 3-4 hub assembly.
I then sat the hub in it, pushed the springs in, and sat the balls on the ramps. Then when you push the hub down, the springs get compressed and it sits inside the tool.
Once this is done, put the outer ring you are using underneath, and push the hub down into it. It works fine.
[edit] make sure you align the baulk ring slots in the ring with those in the hub before you push the hub in.

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Last edited by drmini in aust on Sun Oct 25, 2015 5:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 5:51 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Mon May 03, 2004 6:46 pm
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Location: ADL
^ Special Tool 22A6969

8)


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 5:54 pm 
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a cable tie works well enough... but the ultra cool tool made by someone on here (I forget who) makes it soooo easy

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 5:56 pm 
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simon k wrote:
a cable tie works well enough... but the ultra cool tool made by someone on here (I forget who) makes it soooo easy


Yes sitnlo62 made some, I have one too. :) Very nice to use, but so is mine. They both just compress the balls & springs, so you can push the hub down into your outer ring.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 6:11 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 3:16 pm
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Location: Brisbane - south
I use the piston ring compressor i use for my mini engines. Put the springs and balls in, wind the compressor in until you can push the hub in, then compress tight, put the inner hub into the outer hub and the compressor seats then tap in with a rubber or Woden mallet. Works a treat.
Cheers
Rod

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 7:30 pm 
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Location: Canberra
simon k wrote:
a cable tie works well enough... but the ultra cool tool made by someone on here (I forget who) makes it soooo easy


+1
Large cable tie works well.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 7:51 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
mini0998 wrote:
simon k wrote:
a cable tie works well enough... but the ultra cool tool made by someone on here (I forget who) makes it soooo easy


+1
Large cable tie works well.


+2!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 8:01 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 11:01 am
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Location: TOWNSVILLE NQ
Hose clamp, grease, special tool, modified synchro cone, cable tie, or ring compressor. Take you pick.
I like the doc's synchro ring the best.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 8:24 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:59 pm
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Location: Western Sydney
I like the modified synchro ring too, but I don't have a spare to modify.
I do have a ring compressor and cable ties, so I will see which works for me.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 8:31 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:59 pm
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Location: Western Sydney
Happy days :D
With my ring compressor, greased springs and balls glued to them with grease it all went together on about the 20th attempt :?
All calm and relaxed again now though :wink:

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