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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 12:02 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 1:22 pm
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Location: Evansford, Victoria
Hi everyone,

I am going to embark on replacing my front floors - the car looks like the Flinstones car right now.

I am interested in how I should tackle the welding.

My thoughts are:

Close to firewall I would do plug welds
Everywhere else I would tack and do butt joints.

I hope that my question makes sense. I just wasn't sure if when using the patch panel you would need to use plug welds anywhere else.

Image

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1966 Morris Mini Minor Saloon (Dot) - 1275 Auto - Mongrel
1968 Morris Mini Van (Ivan) - 998 Auto - Mongrel
1968 Morris Mini.Matic (George) - Original
1968 Morris Mini.Matic (Charlie) - Original


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 1:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I wouldn't plug weld it. I would overlap it 10mm at front and seam weld it with MIG so it's weatherproof.
On top, and MIG underneath the lap too if it's on a spit.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 4:46 pm 
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848cc
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Out of curiosity, was that how they did it from factory or is that the way it should be done now?

From memory I had to remove the spot welds to separate the original rusted floor from the firewall.

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1966 Morris Mini Minor Saloon (Dot) - 1275 Auto - Mongrel
1968 Morris Mini Van (Ivan) - 998 Auto - Mongrel
1968 Morris Mini.Matic (George) - Original
1968 Morris Mini.Matic (Charlie) - Original


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 4:49 pm 
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1275cc
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As you have described is the way I would do it.

Factory was just spot welds with a little bit of brazing here and there. And a touch of mig in a couple places )like where the floor pan joins the inner wheel arch just below the seatbelt strap door retainer). But put together with a spot welder.

They were then tarred over the top of the seams and then painted over the top

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 10:12 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 9:07 pm
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Location: TNQ
drmini in aust wrote:
I wouldn't plug weld it. I would overlap it 10mm at front and seam weld it with MIG so it's weatherproof.
On top, and MIG underneath the lap too if it's on a spit.


Whether this is the right or wrong way to do it, that's exactly how I did mine, both sides.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 4:00 pm 
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Location: Close to Maitland NSW
Overlap and seam weld top and bottom. Mine also done this way 10 years ago and still perfect.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2015 11:13 pm 
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Location: north west queensland
68auto where did you get the floor repair panel from.

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1978 leyland mini van. New to this, be nice, dont know anything.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2015 7:29 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 1:22 pm
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The image shown is just one that I found doing a quick Google search that would demonstrate what I was talking about.

The panel I got was probably from MiniSport (Aus). I needed an Aussie panel as the car I am working on is a Mini Matic.

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1966 Morris Mini Minor Saloon (Dot) - 1275 Auto - Mongrel
1968 Morris Mini Van (Ivan) - 998 Auto - Mongrel
1968 Morris Mini.Matic (George) - Original
1968 Morris Mini.Matic (Charlie) - Original


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2015 7:45 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
For cars `67 to `78 you need the Oz `hydro' panels. Also available from Karcraft, and Minikingdomonline.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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