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1310/71
PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 8:27 pm 
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Location: Plumpton, NSW
Try resaving the curve to the unit from your laptop off the car, then plug it back in and try it again.

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rodmac
PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:43 pm 
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Location: Brisbane - south
Thanks
I have done that a couple of times now without any success. I thought maybe I had a bad crimp so did a continuity check on the white and green wires from connector to coil and distributor and they are fine. Did not want to play with the wires going into the black box but I guess it could be one of those connectors?
Cheers
Rod

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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 11:12 pm 
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I would check the wiring, heck there are only 4 of em...!
Mine is mounted under the dash, I extended the cables by soldering trailer wire to them, no crimped joiners. The lugs on the cables are soldered, I don't trust cheap crimp connectors.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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Stuwey
PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 4:17 pm 
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I've fitted one of these units today, and got the car running.

A cough, splutter, and then no action and won't start.

I can't get the red power light on the module to illuminate either. If i plug the USB in then i get both green and red, but not under normal ignition power.

I have power at the +ve on the coil, which is where i'm powering the unit from, and this checks out with 12v at the box, too.

Thoughts?

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Morris 1100
PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 4:46 pm 
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Earth?
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Stuwey
PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 5:06 pm 
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Nah - added a temporary power and earth feed - no change.

Powers and runs with the USB plugged in to fire it up though....?

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Morris 1100
PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 5:09 pm 
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Well that's rather odd.
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Stuwey
PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 5:11 pm 
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You and me both.

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9YaTaH
PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 8:30 am 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Earth?


Not to mention Man, Women etc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juN1mgR3VBQ

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gtogreen1969
PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 6:02 pm 
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Convertible Mini wrote:
Mick by the end of the week I will have these units in stock. (For those who want to support us Local businesses) The manufacturer advises not to use them with Ignition coils that have a primary resistance lower than 1.5 OHMS. I will be selling these units for $200 post included. Or Complete with an electronic Ignition Kit for $250.00. We also have new Coils to go with them for another $50. So for $300 you get the lot Box, Electronic Ign, Kit and Coil Posted.

Well I might see what all this fuss is about and get myself a black box. PM sent Tony
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matty matt
PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 6:48 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
OK it's now been a week since I physically advanced the dizzy to 10deg static, so I pulled the dizzy cap off for a look.
It is now sparking on 3/4 of the rotor's brass strip, instead of just the leading corner, like it was when set for TDC datum.

So, I'll leave it set this way, running the std 43/45D rotor. It is now going like sh!te off a shovel.. :P 8)

Here's the latest map, actual advance is +10deg on figures shown.
This has also allowed me to increase high rpm dwell a bit.
Image

Hi DR I'm about to start and program my new black box that i got for my 1098 just wondering would you recommend this map as a starting point ?
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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:12 am 
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Yes I would use this map as shown, but with their recommended TDC datum, not the +10deg I need to use because of my combustion chamber shape (which has the beaks ground right out and so bugger all squish area).

I've been running it for a while now and my current map is still very close to the one shown.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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thegimpy1972
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 6:16 pm 
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Hi Guys,

Can i please ask if the attached image is the correct wire diagram for the black box?

Cheers Jason


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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Convertible Mini
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 7:02 pm 
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Location: JIMBOOMBA QLD.
Yes the above connections are correct . If it is the latest Stealth Box you can only do the programming with it disconnected from the car and just connected Via USB cable to PC.

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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 8:14 pm 
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Why did they do that, it's a major step backwards! :(

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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