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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 3:28 pm 
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Hi all, I have non standard studs and nuts on my main caps, 1100s block. I know I might need to grind some out if the gearbox to allow it to seat property. It seems I need to remove a 1/4 inch or so, does this look right? Image


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 6:02 pm 
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Shorten the 2 studs, don't weaken the gearbox. re the flat washers I would leave them off, Cooper S didn't have them.
If the RH nut still hits, machine it a little shorter. It looks longer than Cooper S ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 6:36 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Shorten the 2 studs, don't weaken the gearbox. re the flat washers I would leave them off, Cooper S didn't have them.
If the RH nut still hits, machine it a little shorter. It looks longer than Cooper S ones.

I've got some other nuts that came off an S block, they are about 3mm shorter. I might use them and cut down the studs as you suggested. Cheers. Richard.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 7:36 am 
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Should I loosen all the caps and then tension them back up in sequence once the mod is done? Cheers.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 8:48 am 
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I would, five minutes work .......to be sure all is right. Probably a weird habit I've got into but I tension all the caps, mains and b/e, them tap with hammer and redo. Probably an OCD thing. Lol


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 10:11 am 
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peterb wrote:
I would, five minutes work .......to be sure all is right. Probably a weird habit I've got into but I tension all the caps, mains and b/e, them tap with hammer and redo. Probably an OCD thing. Lol

Nothing wrong with OCD, to be sure, to be sure.
Better than not checking things.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 11:23 am 
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Ok so I've shortened the studs, they are made by Arp. What torque for the main caps, same as standard bolts or different? Cheers.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 1:51 pm 
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I'd just use 60 ft/lb, as for stock S studs. No need to winch them up any harder.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 3:47 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I'd just use 60 ft/lb, as for stock S studs. No need to winch them up any harder.

Thanks Kevin, thought so but it never hurts to be sure.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 4:06 pm 
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Image
Image

That should work just nicely thanks!!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 4:34 pm 
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Someone else built the engine and now I'm looking at the rocker assembly... The pads on the arms seem to be nowhere near the centre of the valve stems. What's the go with this? Cheers.
ImageImage


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 6:39 pm 
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Someone has put 850/998/1098 rockers on the 1275 head.
1275 pressed steel ones have oval pads. They also have a flat washer next to the exhaust rockers only, to space them out a little. Because 1275 exhaust valve guides are further from the inlets.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 7:24 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Someone has put 850/998/1098 rockers on the 1275 head.
1275 pressed steel ones have oval pads. They also have a flat washer next to the exhaust rockers only, to space them out a little. Because 1275 exhaust valve guides are further from the inlets.

Thanks doc.


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