Hi guys got drum brakes all round. rebuilt the front brakes so then I bled all of them.

Ive been told and the manual says to unscrew nipple then push pedal down and hold then tighten nipple then let go of brake pedal. I keep doing this but still finding faint bubbles in lines.

Try driving and theres no pedal pressure. If you pump it a few times the pedal comes good but then just goes soft again.

Am I missing something or any tips?

Did you put the retaining spring thingy magig
that secures the brake shoe to the wheel cylinder back in
I have heard that if you don't the wheel cylinder will retract back into the cylinder
the brake adjuster holds the shoe out , not the cylinder piston if not attached
just a thought

Buy an elcheapo one man bleed kit.
Connect the hose to the bleed nipple, crack it open a fraction.
Put the valve of the bleed kit into the bottom of a bottle on the floor.
Have an assistant keep the brake master cylinder topped up.
Start pumping the pedal in long full steady strokes.
When the bubbles stop, close the bleed nipple.
Move on to the next wheel.
May have to do all 4 a couple of times.

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Sounds like you still have air in the system. I have done the following for years and always works.

I take it you have an early mini, not the duel brake master cylinder type. Have all wheels on the deck, not jacked up. If jacked up, ensure all wheels are supported so the suspension is compressed slightly. This is to ensure the bias valve is not closed off. Top up the brake master cylinder. Ensure all brakes are adjusted properly and the handbrake is on. You must start from the furtherest bleeder. Connect a clear plastic hose to the LH rear brake bleeder, place end of hose in a clear bottle. Wear some clear plastic goggles, not glasses. Brake fluid in the eyes is not nice. Have someone pump the brake pedal several times, open the bleeder. Pedal goes down and hold down. Close bleeder. Repeat twice. If you get bugger all fluid out of the rear bleeders, just before you open the bleeder tell the pumper to slightly easy off a little bit of pressure on the pedal. The bias valve may be shut and by easing off slightly, it releases it open. Top up master cylinder. Go to RH rear, repeat as per LH rear side. Then LH front, then RH front. Top up master cylinder each time, don't let it get low. At this stage you should have a reasonable pedal. Wash down any spills around the hubs and floor with water.

Yep, the elcheapo brake bleeder tool does a great job also. If you still can't get a decent brake pedal, maybe you'll need a repair kit in the master cylinder. If so, and if the bore is scored, get a new master cylinder.

I have found that gravity feed works the best for me
or you can vacuum bleed

Thanks for all the info. Iv heard of gravity feed too. Guess il try everything and see what happens

i had a very similar, almost exact issue a few weeks ago.
I have always blead brakes the conventional method and never had an issue.

tombo on here said to bleed the rears, he opens the nipple and pumps like crazy, then closes the nipple with his foot pushed down. I don't know how or why, but this worked perfectly. I think its to do with the restrictor valve!

I also had to re adjust all my brakes, which made a huuuge difference!

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-jamie-
1963morris 850
1965 solid side van
1994 rover racecar

Sounds like there's so many ways to bleed them

Back the adjusters off before bleeding.

Check the front adjusters one could be worn out happen to me was fine when blead up and adjustment done the first bump on the road pedal went to the floor

New front back plates ain't cheap at $100+ a side new

But there a some used secondhand ones available.

If you mean just the drum brake back plate itself MKO has NOS for $25 a side. http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... e-lh-rear/

MKO recently added fully assembled drum brake assemblies for those who don't want to get their hands too dirty.

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... embly-lhs/

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I was talking about the front not rear

Now I have a photo reference for when I forget which spring goes where

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.