you will need to """UN_ADJUST""" the front brakes ... then bleed them

the cyls are vertical so if the shoes are adjusted up then one pist5on will be sitting higher than the bleed hole... hence capturing air under the piston,,, they need to be Un-adjusted to get the piston down level with the bleed hole

Minicooper4me,,, i don`t know what you`re on about regarding the pressure limiting valve & suspension thing,,, & telling people to adjust the brakes up before you bleed them is no good at all,,, that`s totally the wrong way round mate

un-adjust ,,, then bleed,,, then adjust them up
easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Does that apply to the rear brakes as well. Unadjusted bleed then readjust ?

Hey Miniman,

Take on board what you're saying, always heed your good advise. You make a lot of sense.

But, years of experience on mini brakes, have done it all ways as suggested by all the above whilst trying to get a good pedal. That's why I have discs, it was giving me the shits. I'm just passing on what has worked for me plenty of times. Brake bias valve, I meant pressure limiting valve.

Yes. You need to decrease the volume held inside the wheel cylinders to give the air the best chance of escaping. The bigger the area inside the wheel cylinders the more chance there is of air getting trapped in piston bores.

So many people so many diff ways I'm confused lol

Mat "TheMiniMan" is a mini mechanic and owns a long standing family business in Brissy. I take what he says as gospel.

Yep, if Matt says something is the easiest and best way you can be sure it is true.

Ok il unadjust then bleed. But as to bleeding do I open the nipple and then press the pedal then close the nipple?? No pumping of brakes

Tried it but still no go. Pedal goes straight to the floor. It's not the MC cause before rebuild brakes were way better

If the pedal comes up with pumping. Hold it with light pressure on the pedal while the nipple is cracked open to let oil/air out then close before letting the pedal up.
Repeat
Repeat

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

You aren't trying to do this on your own are you? you need an able bodied assistant to pump the pedal whilst you man the nipple.
Not trying to sound like a smart A, just trying to help.

Brian

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"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

im not that amateur

LOL. I was almost that amateur the other day when I put new brake lines on the motorbike. I have a vacuum pump bleeder which works a treat but was working so well I forgot about topping up the master cylinder reservoir until I heard it sucking through air !! "IDIOT" or words to that effect. I then employed a beautiful scantily clad assistant, well the misses in her nightie to watch the master reservoir and keep it topped up.

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1972 Leyland Mini Clubman
2000 Honda CBR929RR

thanks guys, all your nice words flatter me & are appreciated.

as for Rappa,,, first up..._> what year is the car?
& does it have a single cyl type brake master cyl (one pipe coming out of it) with a pressure limit valve mounted on the back subframe?

or ,,, does it have a late system with Tandum master cyl (2x pipes coming out of it) & a valve mounted in the engine bay under/beside the master cyls?

it`s important to know,,, mainly for the old "Pumping the peddle" thing

if it`s the later tandum system, then please "DO NOT PUMP THE PEDDLE"
--------> unless you have at least one front & one rear nipple open at the same time!!

if its the early single master cyl system then you can pump the peddle,,, but it`s normally not needed to pump peddles
we just gravity bleed the systems

But if you do pump the peddle then please remember that "Normally" (while you`re driving along with good brakes) the master cyl doesn`t normally travel the whole way down to the floor like the clutch does

so when you pump an old brake master cyl to the floor,,, you have just captured a whole heap of rust that was sitting on the bore of that master cyl.

so,,, tell us what system you have & then we can start to help you ok?

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

The older type. Single master cylinder system