Anybody used these? Looks like a great idea...!
http://www.speedbleeder.com/

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you have the brakes un-adjusted for bleeding and do get all the air out you will need to adjust them up again to get the pedal to be solid.

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oky doky, then un-adjust the front brakes (again) ,,, but when you do it, it does pay to check that the cyl pistons/shoes have gone fully home properly buy pulling the drums off & looking to see that the cam-adjuster has come away from the shoes, & even then you can physically push the shoes back home while you`re there (if your return springs are a bit sad)

then once you have made sure that the shoes are fully home (un-adjusted) then let the nipples loose & watch for air bubbles but keeping an eye on the reservoir.

if you have early tin tank reservoirs then the recovery hole (inside the tank through to the cyl) is only about an inch down the reservoir,,, so you can`t let the level drop much or you`ll be sucking air again

if they`re the later plastic type then you can see the level getting low,,, keep it topped up.

once there`s no more air coming by gravity bleeding then you can adjust the front brakes up

adjust them up until the wheel locks up & then back them off a tad until you can turn the wheel relatively free but still here/feel the shoes scrapping/rubbing the drum slightly

Now!!!---> to un adjust: if you can imagine being under the car , looking forward... the left wheel adjusters need to be turned anti-clockwise (ie: in the rearward direction of rotation of the wheels)

the right side (drivers side) need to be turned clockwise (in the reverse direction of rotation of the wheels)

then gravity bleed

then to adjust them up you will need to imagine you`re under the car again & the left (passengers) wheel adjusters need to be turned clockwise now (following the forward direction of rotation of the wheels),,, the drivers side (R/H) wheel adjusters need to be turned anti-clockwise (again in the forward direction of rotation of the wheels

if you don`t follow this procedure the right way,,, IE: if you adjust them the wrong way then the return of the shoes will un-adjust the brakes each time you use them.

once this sequence is sorted correctly you can simply bleed the rear brakes (whether they`re adjusted up or not),,, then adjust them up if they`re not already

the rear adjusters are simply a square headed, r/h threaded bolt, with a pyramid end wedging the shoes apart,,, so you wind them in until you lock the wheels up & then back them off until you can turn the wheel free enough but still hear/feel the shoes scrapping/rubbing... don`t leave the wheel tight to turn.

you can pump fluid through with this early system but i prefer not to as you may find that you can areate the fluide if you`re a little too enthusiastic with your pumping

if you have a small leak somewhere tho,,, you can find that air will happilly suck in & fluid may not leak out,,, so leaks "May-Not" be that obvious at first

sometimes it takes a good drive over some bumpy roads & get some knocks & bangs to disslodge some air bubbles off the dry internals,,, once they`re in solution & not stuck to pipes/hoses you may find you`ll have to repeat the whole process to get them out too.

I`ll just run over the design problem causing the need to un-adjust the front brakes again, just for those who don`t realise,,, & also for those who "think" they know but some obviously don`t

the front cyls are mounted vertically,,, so if the piston is protruding outwards from it base, then air will be trapped above the bleed/connector pipe hole,,, air is lighter than brake fluide so no matter what you do,,, however you bleed it,,, the air simply will not want to go down to get out of that hole

you`ll need to make sure the pistons are down , home, totally, fully,,, all the way
only then will the bottom of the piston line-up with the hole for the air to escape

it`s just simple physics (Nature)

if fluide isn`t p!ssing happilly out of each nipple then you have a blockage & need to fix it first before going any further,,, more-than-likely a bad hose ,,, or poop in a nipple/cyl.

if you can follow what i`ve just typed then you should have awesome mini brakes & will be fine for yonks n yonks
until your shoes have worn some & you can simply adjust them all up again

if you still don`t have a decent peddle then you havn`t followed what i`ve just typed

or

you have a leak somewhere--> letting air in the system each time you lift your foot off the peddle... might be the master cyl sucking air in as you lift your peddle each time,,, or a piece of crud stuck in one of the fittings/tube nuts stopping a perfect seal... or your shoes are so badly worn that you`re adjusters are just going around & around & no amount of bleeding & adjusting is going to fix shoes that need to travel too far to meet the drum.

i always measure brake drums to see what size they`ve been machined out too



easy-peasy,,, get on with it

or just fit some discs onto the front

merry christmas everybloody

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Great read!

When you say gravity bleed. Do you run a tube down into a bottle, open the nipple and let it flow through? Or do you use a long hose and have the end above the master cylinder and let the bubbles rise out? I've Googled a gravity bleed and got both these methods

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I have a problem.. apparently

You can do , or you can just put a piece of rag or a container on the floor under where the nipple will drip , it wont be pi$$ing out .

In reguards to the direction that the adjusters operate , mark the outside of the drum with a texta or
metal marker so you know the next time you do them .

Well described too Matt !

you can mark the backing plate to show the extent of the travle of the cam-adjusters but i like to actually check by taking the drum off,, & as i said earlier it helps to physically (by hand) squish the shoes back together to make sure they`re fully home for starters because not only does that make sure they are actually home & the bottom of the piston does actually line up with the hole in the cyl,

but also...

i reckon it`s silly to try to bleed &/or adjust any drum brakes without actually having a look at them inside the drum

Trust me when i say--> things can be sooooo wrong inside from previous "attempts" by the un-trained mini brake repair enthusiast... well,,, if i`d only taken pictures/photos of some of the stuff i`ve seen over the years

Party tonight, wet tee-shirt comp is on the cards i reckon

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Oh, & sorry i should have said this first

--> always check your wheel bearings for play before even bothering to try to fix your brakes
if the wheels bearings are stuffed & the wheel (s) wobble quite a bit, then you`ll never get decent brakes performing the way they should until you`ve fixed the wheel bearing issue first

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

you sir are a mini god
I have all new shoes, cylinders and wheel bearings done, and today I picked up all 4 brake hoses so il replace them then give your commandants a try.
Appreciate all the info!! hopefully 5th times a charm

^^^hits Like Button ^^^
No problemo bro
easy-peasy
just follow the mini-bible & you`ll be sweet
if you do it all correctly you will have awesome brakes.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I followed the procedure this weekend. Worked awesome

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I have a problem.. apparently

Ok I did everything and now I have a leak between the hose and wheel cylinder on left hand side. Should there be a copper washer between them?? Hose and cylinder are brand new and tight

The copper washer will only help make a better seal. Sometimes you can get away without them, but they're there to take up the misalignment.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yep copper washer fixed the leak. Got better brakes and pedal now. Still hard to get used to mini brakes

Soft copper washer is there ensure sealing, I'd not try to fit hoses without them. Brake fluid will weep through places that water won't.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.