I just used 1.52mm of shims to shim a new balljoint. That seems ridiculous when I received .45mm of shims in the bag.
Does that seem normal? I understand they're not what they used to be but the number seems high.
I did quite a bit of lapping on it before I started but it still took all but 3 of my existing shims.
Now I have to buy up a rake of spares to do another 3!

_________________
Tim

In my experience, they can take a lot, and the new ones have some pretty wide tolerances. Some of mine needed heaps, some I threw out because they were loose with no shims at all! Make sure that you torque them up to specification when checking.

Also, if it's one of the ball joints with the spring, you need to shim without the spring to get the shimming correct, and then assemble with the spring.

Do you have any spare lock tabs? I have not tried it but they are quite thick compared to the shims and can also be used apparently.

Haha I didnt know if anyone else had tried that. Tried to use one on my next one, but it was too thick with the shims I have remaining, too thin without!

_________________
Tim

Yep, I grind away the outer bits of the locktab and use it first. Sometimes it can be too thick tho.

_________________
1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

The people who make the balljoint kits also make shims. So, by not putting enough shims in the kit, they make 2 sales, not one.
This is how the importer described it to me.

Moral of story- NEVER throw out your old shims.... you'll need em again.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Can you guys help me identify which one is lower and upper ball joint

Cheers jason

That one on the left looks strange, never seen one recessed in the end like that.
Top and bottom joints are identical except the lower one has a coil spring behind the little cup.
You shim them with no spring, then disassemble, fit spring and reassemble.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I recommend using the nos ones at mini kingdom online there a harder steel

don't forget to lap the ball joint with valve grinding paste first before installing

Them ones in the box are rubbish

I had a brand new one recently that was loose with NO shims in it. Other new ones fitted in the same place were fine. They were otherwise very well made. So I set the cup up true in the lathe and faced .015" off it.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.