hi everyone im going to attempt to remove the engine from my mini in the next week or so and just wanted to know if there is any tips for a beginner.
been watching youtube videos any it dosnt look to hard.

1.Get degreaser out and attempt to get rid of all dirt/ grime/ oil from top and then from bottom and then from under at sides ensuring that much spray /dripping contacts your eyes or rolls down sleeves to slowly burn armpits
2.mark the bonnet hinges and remove bonnet first or whack your head against sharp hook a few times first and then remove bonnet before you become too light headed from blood loss

Alternatively, order some minivation hinges, install and not worry about the bonnet at all =D

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

FNQ....that post made my day....that's my approach all over

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"Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity!"
1972 Mini Clubman 1098
1978 Leyland Mini 998 - she’s gone to a good home

There's a good "how to"
in the "how to" section.
viewtopic.php?t=45377#p547129

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

THANKS
I have a rod change gearbox are most of the steps the same?

I'd be interested in the difference for a Rod change too.

Specifically, can you just pop off inner Pots to release drive shafts from gearbox on removal?

Even though shows a remote he explains for both.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

I wish this forum was around when I removed the engine in my mini for the first time many years ago.
I remember the manual just says 'remove powerplant' but has no how to!

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Justin

A good tip for your first time is to get some masking tape & write on the tape & tag all of the wires & pipes/ hoses where they come from so you don't get confused when the time comes to eventually put the motor back in. You can also put your bolts in sandwich bags with a description of where the bolts came from written on the bag.

Brad

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During the day I work on English designed cars & on my own time I work on English designed cars....

Ah yep got it.

From doogie's guide,
for Rod Change / Pot Joints combo this is the difference from what I can gather.

"For rod change selector, put the car into reverse & tap the roll pin out of the sleeve, then remove the 1/2 headed bolt from the upper arm & remove"
"Pot joint, you need to undo & break the taper on the bottom ball joint & remove ball joint from control arm & pop driveshaft out of the pot joint"

Cheers

Not quite sure what you're hoping to achieve here. However, If you just undo the pot joint boot, the pot joints will slide apart as you lift the engine up.. You may need a little wiggle side to side but probably not. Put some carpet/ old towel on the floor under the diff area in case (when:) some of the balls fall out of the inner end of the drive shaft..

I do find it easier to pop the top joint (less effort in MHO) to slide the joint back together once the engine is back in. I have done it without touching the hubs but its easier the other way....

Two things are worth checking twice ...don't ask me why these are the top of my list Check that you've undone the earth strap(s).... and check that the clutch slave hose is undone at one end....

Cheers, Ian

Hobson seem to remember you had a couple of minor teething issues when you fitted them did you get them all sorted and would you recommend them ?

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1972 Leyland Mini Clubman
2000 Honda CBR929RR

Sorry for the thread hijack, but yes I did, it was bugging me for a quite a while, but with the car off the road while getting work done, and Eng. certs and the like I wasn't to concerned. I knew I needed to have a look at it, last resort being to return to the stock ones.

At the end of last year they released an adjustment guide, worked a treat. I still have to fiddle with on of the sides but its only 2-4mm as opposed to 12-14!, much happy. Note that I had to move my canister whosa wats-it (pretty sure I said that on my thread).

In terms of my opinion of them, I haven't had to use them for any major work yet, not that I have had the time. I do believe they were some of the earlier ones and the design has been slightly refined. But in the 2 or 3 things i did under the low bonnet, one of which was putting the hinges in I smacked my head at least once every time . They could be a little meatier but I don't think they are meant for vigorous use, like most things look after them and after you. ( I Like them a lot in case that wasn't clear)

I will be sending before and after photos to minivation at their request for the adjustment guide. Note also if you are in Brissy, one of them might be moving over here in the not to distant future, don't tell them I told you I don't want to jinx it (touch wood) all goes to plan.

Edit - If you were up in NSW I would to my best to get to a meet so you could look. (NSW peoples feel free to pester me to come if you want to have a look)

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675