AYA2129 is not a separate radiator, just the part number given to an AYA2077 with a drain tap and no pressure relief cap (see below).

Morris 1100 - in case you want to check your radiator listing, below are the relevant pages from two Mini and one Moke parts microfiche.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks.
Makes sense.

Thanks for the clarification Doug.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

A bit more to add to the mix.
My Clubman parts list PUB 1052 - Dec 1972 gives the Clubman radiator assembly as AYG 2244. It doesn't give a different part number for the GT radiator.
The only reference to YG2S8 - GT model code, refers to the top rad bracket and lower rad hose as being different part numbers.

RonR

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68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

The radiator that came in my GT is 2244, I think my other one is also. My third GT has the wrong one though.

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I am unable to see the photo. But most factory Radiators, ( Factory fitted that is )
have a nameplate attached to the top tank, on this nameplate will be the part number and the
date of manufacture (unless it is a P & A supplied part then the date MAY not be on the nameplate )

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" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"

The radiator place were interested to see an original Newcell branded radiator and said they were commonly used on many Australian built cars and of course aftermarket radiators.

John, I should have taken a Pic of mine before I took it to the radiator place but I've seen a few similar.

Newcell brand name on a raised nameplate just below the cap on the side of the tank. I've seen some with the plaque on the top surface of the tank too. As well as the AYA2129 it seemed to have K66 hand stamped on the name plate.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

On this subject, I just took an original mini radiator to Natrad and they took the top and bottom tanks off and inserted a new core. The new core is two not three and is narrower but still fits nicely in the tanks and they claim the new fins (which are zig-zag and further apart instead of horizontal) will out perform the old three core anyway. Not in the car yet but will be interesting to see how it goes. Is the newer design of the fins that much better? It cost more than a new replacement but I thought the original tanks would look better (original shape) and no mods needed. I couldn't find a good useable original three core.
Also, I have another top tank with the old brass newcell label and was wondering if there would be a way of getting it off and sticking it on the repaired top tank that didn't have one. Not sure how they are stuck on?

Duplicate post deleted by mod

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

I could say "damn you phillb for unearthing this thread full of unanswered questions" but, really, I'm never ceased to be amazed the number of permutations of parts we've had during the life of this simple little car we all love. Personally I enjoy trying to bring a conclusion to queries like this, so thank you phillb.

First AYG2244

The engineering drawing for this part says: "Radiator assembly is identical to AYA2077 except for inlet fitting, outlet fitting, lower mounting bracket and extra screw and speednut". The inlet and outlet fittings (the tubes soldered to the radiator tanks where the hoses attach) are about 1/3" shorter than those on AYA2077. This change was approved for production in October 1971, so I reckon this was the change needed to allow a round-nose radiator to be fitted to a Clubman.

Out of interest below is a photo of a spare radiator I have that has the part number AYA2061, stamped code L66 and manufactured by Newcell. The drawing for this radiator says it is an AYA2030 radiator plus drain tap and less filler cap. It was released to production in May 1964. I think the code is a manufacturing date, so 66 for the year and L (or K in phillb's case) the month.

Comments?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I took a photo of the radiator in my 1966 Morris 1100 and it is AYG2000 with J6S after it....



I can see I'm going to need to add a column to my list to show the part numbers and the radiator numbers!

I would agree that the J and the 6 would be a date code.

Hi Phil,
I Think the radiator with the name plate on the top of the tank,
usually has a flat looking top tank, and the radiator with the
nameplate on the side of the tank usually has a rounded top tank.

one thing I am not sure of is when the change points are for when the long reach
and the short reach caps were fitted, I am sure the information is available
but for some reason I have never got around to checking this out

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" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"

The one I am having restored as I said has K66 (so 1966?) and it had the long reach neck and the rounded top/label on side.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

I think it would be soldered on, so heat to remove the 'old' one and solder to fix to the 'new' one.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks, will give it a go.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Just got the old Newcell back. They took off the top tank and cleaned it out. They said it was surprisingly clean so they left the original core.

Flute it looks like they re soldered the plate back on anyway. They probably get the top tank so hot it falls off anyway. I'm sure that's why you don't see many cause normally they would just bin it.

I would try heating the plate off your old one and give it to your radiator shop and they can solder it on for you when they work on yours. Goes on the flat area below cap facing engine.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)