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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 5:58 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
Once you snap an easy out you might as well put the drill and taps away and break out the welder.


Or wheel out "The Disintegrator"....muuuaaahawwaah :twisted:

http://www.cammann.com/


Take Mick's suggestion... I could tell you where to go in Canberra (seriously:) but you'll have to do your own search in Sydney.

It was cheap, quick and left the block absolutely untouched. I think they may also be known as a plasma eroder ???.. I'm sure someone will know. And I'm sure one of the quality engineering shops would have one.

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 6:57 pm 
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sitnlo62 wrote:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ARTU-7-PIECE-METRIC-DRILL-SET-4-12mm-ALLROUNDER-DRILL-THRU-HARDENED-STEEL-/160736438579?hash=item256ca36933:g:ZmsAAOxyhXRTMj~Y

Jenk,
These drills Will Drill out an Easy Out.
I have used them on high speed steel many times. Easy outs are softer than high speed steel.
Believe me they will work..
You will need to set up a drill guide so you are sure to drill down the center of the broken bolt and easy out combination.
A simple drill guide could be made with a piece of mild steel with a hole in it the size of the drill you are going to use.
Bolt it to the block using the other steady mount hole and another suitable point.
Position the hole in your drill guide directly over the broken bolt hole.. Guide should be about 20mm thick
Dont try to do it without a drill guide, it will end in tears!!!
If your not sure PM me and ill send you my mobile number and talk you through it.

Hi Dave,

The easy out is no longer square at the top where it snapped as I'm sure you have already assumed... do you think the drill guide will still keep the drill straight given its now jagged? I really appreciate the offer mate I'll let you know how I go just need to round up some 20mm mild steel and give it a crack. Thanks again.

Also if I'm successful with drilling out the easy out, how do you suggest I get out the broken bolt (the original problem) should I just drill it out as well??

cheers

Dave

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Last edited by Jenk on Wed Dec 02, 2015 8:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 7:04 pm 
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Great advice from Dave.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2015 9:23 pm 
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1071 S wrote:
9YaTaH wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
Once you snap an easy out you might as well put the drill and taps away and break out the welder.


Or wheel out "The Disintegrator"....muuuaaahawwaah :twisted:

http://www.cammann.com/


Take Mick's suggestion... I could tell you where to go in Canberra (seriously:) but you'll have to do your own search in Sydney.

It was cheap, quick and left the block absolutely untouched. I think they may also be known as a plasma eroder ???.. I'm sure someone will know. And I'm sure one of the quality engineering shops would have one.

Cheers, Ian


What you are talking about here is a spark eroder.
Would do the job too but would require total disassembly of the engine as the block would need to be stood on end on the table as it would if you where using a drill press. There is also a lot of water involved with this process.
I would also advise using a guide here to ensure the electrode doesn't wander.

Dave

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2015 11:40 am 
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Those drills look interesting.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 7:16 am 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Those drills look interesting.


Not after you watch the ad on TV for the 200th time :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 7:31 am 
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Thanks for that link Dave, lots of interesting stuff on their site for us machinists. :D

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2015 5:54 pm 
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Hi, I did the exact same thing.
I tried a few things, drilling it, hammering it around with a centre punch.
In the end I smashed as much of the very brittle ezyout with the centre punch, then used some solid carbide burrs 1/8 size in a cheap dremel. The solid carbide burrs were from eBay, about $25 for 20 assorted burrs delivered, good value!
It took a while, it's in a difficult position, so I worked slowly, letting the tool do the work, checking with a torch and mirror. I really didn't want to break the carbide burr in the hole as well!
I also tried my air grinder with a 1/4 inch burr but this was too close in size to the original hole and difficult to control.
Once the ezyout was ground out I drilled and tapped and fitted a thread repair insert.
Good luck with getting it out.
Cheers, Caleb


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:10 am 
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IMO it's quicker to pull the motor out and do it on the floor, where you can see what you are doing.
re fitting thread inserts, if the hole is stripped or thread damaged I just tap the hole out to 3/8" UNF and fit a bigger bolt. Stronger, and less likely to get broken.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 6:00 pm 
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Location: Kellyville, NSW
Thanks SCA1PER Ive tried tapping it out with a centre punch... no good, not sure I want to smash it out either appreciate the advice.

Doc the engine is already out subframe and all so this will make it easier but I really like Dave's (sitnlo62) idea of making a drill guide that will bolt to the side of the block via the other engine steady hole along with one of the crankcase bolt holes enabling you to keep the bit completely square whilst drilling out the easy out with one of those you beaut drill bits. Dave... true champion that he is even offered to make the jig and send it to me from Queensland... What an absolute legend of a bloke!! Off course I will be buying him a case of beer or two, it just restores your faith in humanity to see that there are still such good people willing to help out!! your'e a legend Dave!!

I will photograph the set up once I have it bolted in place to give you all a better idea/understanding of Dave's idea.

cheers

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Last edited by Jenk on Wed Mar 02, 2016 3:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 7:39 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Jenk wrote:
true champion that he is even offered to make the jig and send it to me from Melbourne... What an absolute legend of a bloke!! Off course I will be buying him a case of beer or two, it just restores your faith in humanity to see that there are still such good people willing to help out there!! your a legend Dave!!

cheers


+1

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 10:21 am 
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Jenk wrote:
Thanks SCA1PER Ive tried tapping it out with a centre punch... no good, not sure I want to smash it out either appreciate the advice.

Doc the engine is already out subframe and all so this will make it easier but I really like Dave's (sitnlo62) idea of making a drill guide that will bolt to the side of the block via the other engine steady hole along with one of the crankcase bolt holes enabling you to keep the bit completely square whilst drilling out the easy out with one of those you beaut drill bits. Dave... true champion that he is even offered to make the jig and send it to me from Melbourne... What an absolute legend of a bloke!! Off course I will be buying him a case of beer or two, it just restores your faith in humanity to see that there are still such good people willing to help out there!! your a legend Dave!!

I will photograph the set up once I have it bolted in place to give you all a better idea/understanding of Dave's idea.

cheers

I used Dave's drill jig today on Jenk's S block in my bench drill. Drill bit it uses is an ARTU 6mm `all purpose drill', it appears to be solid carbide with an insert (stellite?) in it. Running at 2,250rpm, it made short work of the ezy-out.
I then removed the jig and drilled it out (slower!) with a 7.0mm HSS drill, and ran the 5/16 UNF plug tap into it by hand in the drill chuck. This peeled the bolt thread remains out.
Thread in the block is still perfect. Some swarf is showing in the pic.
Note I just sat the jig back on for the pic, it's not bolted down.
The welded bracket sits on the flywheel housing flange if using it in situ.

pics-
Image

Image

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 1:41 pm 
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lucky bugger, nice job Kev - I need to do the same job to my MK2 S block, except I'm pretty sure I'll need a new hole. I made a big mess 10 years ago trying to get it out

is there any chance of sending that very excellent looking guide south-west?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 1:49 pm 
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I've got one more to drill (no ezyout!) in a Clubby van.
Then up to Jenk or Dave, it's not my jig.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 3:29 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Jenk wrote:
Thanks SCA1PER Ive tried tapping it out with a centre punch... no good, not sure I want to smash it out either appreciate the advice.

Doc the engine is already out subframe and all so this will make it easier but I really like Dave's (sitnlo62) idea of making a drill guide that will bolt to the side of the block via the other engine steady hole along with one of the crankcase bolt holes enabling you to keep the bit completely square whilst drilling out the easy out with one of those you beaut drill bits. Dave... true champion that he is even offered to make the jig and send it to me from Queensland... What an absolute legend of a bloke!! Off course I will be buying him a case of beer or two, it just restores your faith in humanity to see that there are still such good people willing to help out there!! your'e a legend Dave!!

I will photograph the set up once I have it bolted in place to give you all a better idea/understanding of Dave's idea.

cheers

I used Dave's drill jig today on Jenk's S block in my bench drill. Drill bit it uses is an ARTU 6mm `all purpose drill', it appears to be solid carbide with an insert (stellite?) in it. Running at 2,250rpm, it made short work of the ezy-out.
I then removed the jig and drilled it out (slower!) with a 7.0mm HSS drill, and ran the 5/16 UNF plug tap into it by hand in the drill chuck. This peeled the bolt thread remains out.
Thread in the block is still perfect. Some swarf is showing in the pic.
Note I just sat the jig back on for the pic, it's not bolted down.
The welded bracket sits on the flywheel housing flange if using it in situ.

pics-
Image

Image


I'd like to take this opportunity to say thank you Drmini for taking the time to help me out with this... a very good bloke worth his weight in gold!! Thanks Kev. An even bigger thank you to Dave (sitnlo62) for going out of his way to make the jig and then send it to me in Sydney from QLD along with the appropriate drill bits at his own expense!! what a legend!!! Thanks Dave..... Legend!!

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