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 Post subject: Overheating Rover SPi
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 1:19 pm 
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I have been having some problems with my 1997 Rover SPi - started with occasional misfire and lacking power. Seemed to have been sorted with fixing black spark plugs. Quickly returned - found a cracked vacuum tube and replaced it. Then the next day, the car over-heated. The radiator and engine were both hot - still able to drive it and wouldn't over-heat unless stuck in traffic. Then, it very quickly overheated (within four to five minutes of driving) and stayed overheated even when driving. When trying to problem-solve issue last night, started the car and it wouldn't even get up to temp whilst at idle (its on stands). The radiator stayed cold. I decided to give it some throttle to get it up to temp - all of sudden it started spewing "white" smoke or vapour with strong smell of fuel forms he exhaust to the point i was concerned the neighbours would complain. I shut it off and took off the rocker cover. The oil seemed to be very thin, as if it was mixed with petrol. There was no white sludge under the rocker cover. It was definitely not black smoke. whether it was white smoke or water vapour i am not 100% sure, but would guess more water vapour.

I was wondering whether i've done my head gasket? someone suggested it could be a water pump seal having blown (replaced the water pump three months ago and there is certainly no leak, as there was when i did my pump last time.)

any thoughts? where to next? do i bite the bullet and presume it is the head gasket?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 4:37 pm 
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sounds like it.... compression test

rocker cover sludge doesn't always happen

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:15 am 
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thanks - gave me the confidence to rip the head off - gasket blown.

i've taken the opportunity to increase the valve sizes and some porting, so some positives to the issue.

any ideas regarding how to sort whether it over-heated because the head was leaking versus the car was over-heating and caused the gasket to blow?

what else should i do now i have the head off? i'll clean the block obviously. do i have to worry about crap getting into the water or oil holes? can i flush the water or oil channels to get rid of any crap or debris?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:25 am 
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I'd check:
Thermostat
Radiator
At a minimum, and flush through the block, heater matrix with as much water as possible in both directions to remove any debris in the system.

Was the coolant level topped up before? If it isn't high enough to reach the thermostat it won't open, and the radiator will stay cold and so will the gauge reading.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:36 am 
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Check / replace waterpump.
Replace any suspect hoses.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:27 pm 
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-Replace the water pump.
-Replace the thermostat
-There are plastic hose connectors where the hoses go through the dash to the heater - replace them with metal ones.
-Flush radiator, replace is suss.
-Check operation or replace the fan switch
-Check fan has correct number of spacers and is on correctly
-Check thermofan works.

With all that stuff done / checked the system should operate like new.
My SPI runs perfect temperature all day long even on 40 degree days with spotlamps in front of the grill blocking fresh air!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:54 pm 
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thanks for all the advice - i'll definitely do that.

one question with regard to fuchsin the block - that's with it put back together, i presume?

what about 'flushing" the oil channels? just fill it, drive a little and then drain it, then fill?

do i need to worry about stuff / crud getting into all the channels when i'm cleaning the block?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 1:15 pm 
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Best to try to keep the crud and bits of gasket out in the first place rather than try to get it out afterwards.
Flush the cooling system after it is back together.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 2:26 pm 
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Lots of attention should be focused on making sure there is no blockages in the water jacket behind no 4 Cylinder. make sure the drain plug hole at back of block is clear. Might pay to replace Welch plugs and make sure all the rust flakes are removed and flushed out of block.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 8:15 pm 
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vazerhino wrote:

one question with regard to fuchsin the block - that's with it put back together, i presume?


After putting the head back on

I like to leave the water pump off and thermostat out, then put your hose nozzle in the top radiator hose and do up the clamp. Turn the hose on hard and keep it on until the water comes out clean.

Do the same with the radiator when it's out of the car

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