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 Post subject: Re: Gearbox question
PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 10:25 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 5:46 pm
Posts: 728
Location: Melbourne
Pottsy,
How about "W" for Weslake, the original head designer, IIRC, way back when you and I were in short pants????

RonR

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 Post subject: Re: Gearbox question
PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 11:35 pm 
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1275cc
1275cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:19 pm
Posts: 4501
Location: Wollongong, NSW
It could well be the "M" for MOWOG stamped on the head

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 Post subject: Re: Gearbox question
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 8:12 am 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
That 12G1316 head is just the 'smog' head with air injection into the exhaust ports. Used on all 1275LS, and late 1275 Moke. Valves are same as an 1100S.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: Gearbox question
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 1:41 pm 
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The Mini King
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Joined: Mon May 21, 2007 7:20 pm
Posts: 1338
Location: Windsor, NSW
Pottsy wrote:
Hi guys. I've been loaned a 1275 motor and gearbox to get my Mini back mobile after a crank meltdown in my old (but really new- long story!) motor.

It's a 12H902UH prefix motor on a gearbox casing number DAM2886.

Allegedly, since it came with the rest of the car, it's from a 1977 Moke Californian, also allegedly with only 53,000 odd km on the clock.

The lender is pretty sure it has a 3.444 diff in it, but I find that a bit hard to swallow given the 12 (or 13) inch wheels on a late Moke. I don't intend changing my Deluxe from the 10" ones.

If it has that diff, then I'll try it as a unit, otherwise I need to swap gearboxes, which I'd rather avoid if possible. Equally, if what I've read on the odd pommy forum is accurate then it may well be an early A+ box which would perhaps mean all sorts of mismatches with drop gears and idler bearings I believe.

Is anyone out there able to enlighten me please as to the likely diff ratio without me resorting to stripping the thing? Needless to say, the sticker showing the ratio, that occasionally survives on diff housings, is long gone.

I await input with a mixture of hope and trepidation! :)

Cheers, Pottsy


With The info you gleamed from the below, and With a DAM2886. gearbox case number,
you can be sure it will be the large idler gear model.

if what I've read on the odd pommy forum is accurate then it may well be an early A+ box which would perhaps mean all sorts of mismatches with drop gears and idler bearings

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 Post subject: Re: Gearbox question
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 4:19 pm 
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848cc
848cc
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Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2004 5:47 pm
Posts: 150
Location: Victoria
Thanks guys for all the valuable input.

I've removed the diff and it's a 4.27 unit. (22G370, 15/64)

I've got the 3.44 from another gearbox which was already fitted with new bearings, pin and spider gears so that looks like it'll go in with no problem. Assuming the diff bolts in as a unit, and the pinion fits nicely on the shaft, then all of the potential mismatches are avoided neatly. Fingers crossed but there appears to be no difference in the differentials that I can see as far as bearings etc.

The output bearing carrier now visible through the end cover removal is one of the nominal later units with the 4 bolts, so I think the diagnosis of an early A+ box, at least, is spot on.

As far as the head detail is concerned, that sound you could hear was me smacking myself on the forehead when it was pointed out that it was 12 G 1316 and not 12 0 1316. I should have sussed that. Doh!

Just got to make some 7/16 UNF plugs for the head and we will progress nicely.

Thanks for all the help so far. Since this is my first foray into the mystic world of Big Bore Engines, I daresay there'll be a few more odd queries at times. I appreciate the feedback.

Cheers, Pottsy

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 Post subject: Re: Gearbox question
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2016 4:32 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39754
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
A cheap way to plug those 7/16 unf air ports is use old seat belt bolts. Then cut em off and grind smooth.

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