I would like to confirm the location of the forward jacking point on the forward subframe.

The photo below shows an upside down L shaped bracket which secures the nudge bar to the subframe. I am assuming that a suitable jacking point for lifting the front end of the car is immediately aft of the bracket, on the (mostly) flat flange that the bracket is bolted to ... yes ?

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-- Simon // VMCI Member 2674 --

look at my post here

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22248&highlight=block

cheers
michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
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See how your subframe is all bent around where the nudge bar attaches.... that's because that spot ISN'T a jacking point, but people have been using it for one.

I always use the original jack, in the factory lifting point.

Jack it up either by putting the jack on the sump, or at the castor arm mounts at the front of the subframe.

Doogie

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Which is marginal safety-wise at best Get the body onto blocks or axle stands as soon as you can before doing anything but a quick wheel change etc The first time you see one of those old worn-out side-entry screw-jacks slowly "unscrew" it is a real eye opener!!

The block of wood jacking aid works on the front and rear subframes just fine.

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"Show me the Mini!"

You should NEVER jack the car by using the sump.
In my experience using the factory points isn't very good, using a trolley jack lifts the rear wheel slightly as well. I use the X member immediately behind the front panel under the bumper. Depending on the type of trolley jack used, a piece of timber might be required to space the lifting arm away from the front panel.

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

I will throw in my 2c worth,
A mini gearbox/sump is quite strong, jacking on it is NOT a problem providing your jack has a fairly large surface area. (don't use a little bottle jack etc.) I use a large/low trolley jack.
When jacking using the sump ensure that you watch the engine as it goes up, if one side of the engine raises before the other you have a bad engine mount and I would suggest replacing it ASAP.

I have jacked 1000's of minis on the sump and NEVER had a problem, Like any car however never leave it on the jack to long and ALWAYS use jack stands when working on them.
Regards,

Andrew

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Andrew@Minisport, South Australia
Ph: 08-8177-1275
Skype: minisport.au

www.minisport.com.au
Minisport for all your mini parts

The only that scares me about jacking a mini up by its sump is the upwards pressure of the jack, against the downwards force around the engine from the car. Thats a lot of stress to be putting on your engine mounts in the wrong direction ?

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No more Minis!......For now.

Most mounts can handle it no probs,
If your mounts broke they probably where not far away from braking anyhow.
I will put it to you the sump is stronger than the subframe. (I have seen hundreds of the subframes all bent due to people jacking on them)

Andrew

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Andrew@Minisport, South Australia
Ph: 08-8177-1275
Skype: minisport.au

www.minisport.com.au
Minisport for all your mini parts

with a trolley jack, i do it from the front suspension arm to subframe mount...

other than that i use the factory hole.... with the original jack

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Have you seen the rubbish that passes for rubber in some aftermarket mounts??? It might be expediant for you, but I certainly wouldn't be recommending it to others

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"Show me the Mini!"

I've been jacking my minis and mokes from that point for 20 year without any problem. Yours does look a bit manky though.

Tim

Thanks for the excellent, and diverse, responses.

Would it be fair to say that load distribution is important when jacking up a mini?

The mini workshop manual recommends using the subframe points only when lifting is occuring at all four points simultaneously, for example when the car is lifted on a garage hoist, as per http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i91/Hanras/A%20General/?action=view&current=27.jpg. I assume this means that lifting the car at only one subframe location results in ~4 times the load at a single point, potentially damaging the subframe, as shown in my initial photo.

Additionally, the mini workshop manual recommends that X member on the front of forward subframe, in conjunction with a load distributing wooden block, offers sufficient load distribution to raise the front of the car without crushing structure, as per http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i91/Hanras/A%20General/?action=view&current=26.jpg. Minibob and Minimick also recommend this approach.

Does that sound reasonable?

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-- Simon // VMCI Member 2674 --

That sounds pretty well right I reckon, but I have jacked the car on the single points you are reffering to always bearing in mind that I want to get the axle stand in place as quickly as poss. Using the front member also means that I can get both axle stands under the subframe/susp mounts together without phaffing around on both sides.

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

I'v always used the juntion between the Tie Bar, Subframe and the body for the front with a trolly Jack. Gives me plenty of room for the Axle Stands. I would not even think of using the Sump just incase of the Engine Mounts .

Rear is the Subby

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