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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2019 8:48 pm 
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There are 2 types of adjustable tie bars for sale ,which is the best type ,also the shock absorbers for the front, KYB does it come with a kit or do you just fit them to existing components .I am fitting comp bump stops to the rear suspension I have to choose well as this is my chrissie present from she who must be obeyed,

Allen Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2019 9:14 pm 
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Re the shocky upgrade

I just grabbed some old shocky mounts from another car. The 8 holes are already there in the body. You will need to dig all the crap out of the holes and run a tap down them. I think they are 1/4" UNF. The holes come out the other side in the engine bay near the hydro hose. The top arm needs to be drilled out a bit more as well to take a larger pin for the lower mounting.

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shocky mounts.jpg

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Top Bracket.jpg

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Shocky upgrade.jpg


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2019 9:35 pm 
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I also found that the rear competition bump stop hit on the body seam. I had to put a slight flare in the seam to give the bump stop some clearance.

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Slightly flare out the body seam.jpg


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2019 7:53 am 
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998cc
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I think you’ll find there are more than 2 types.

Based on a (really) bad experience - missed the lamp post by thiiiis much - I would buy the kind that adjusts at the hub end. My old ones were threaded at the subframe end ...and snapped through the thread... :shock:

The same goes for the lower control arm. The later ones I have seen have an offset adjuster section. This means they operate with a degree of shear as well as tension/compression. I have heard of these failing....

Cheers, Ian


Last edited by 1071 S on Fri Dec 20, 2019 8:56 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2019 8:29 am 
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998cc
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blimey if they snap this would be a disaster when driving at 100 k


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2019 1:06 pm 
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I've had this type for several years, very tough

https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/21A1091.aspx

gtogreen1969 wrote:
The top arm needs to be drilled out a bit more as well to take a larger pin for the lower mounting.


need to drill the top arm, I use an 8mm cap screw and a sleeve inside the damper

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2019 4:51 am 
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I put a write-up on this mod of mine on the how to forum.
Using an M8x100 socket head capscrew.
No need to drill the arm out.

Because drilling a top arm out on the car is hard work, they are tough steel.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2019 8:17 pm 
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thx boys
Allen


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2019 5:18 pm 
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if I can offer some advice on dampers, the 'standard' type dampers do absolutely nothing when fitted to a hydro car, to feel any difference you need some that are pretty firm or adjustables on a reasonable hard setting

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2019 4:50 am 
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Re the lower arms, the Minisport ones are much stronger. They use big LH and RH threads instead of a small offset end like minispares do.

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