Guys, I've sorta reconditioned a rocker shaft (strip, degrease and clean, rebuild) for my temporary engine, but was needing to know how to adjust the rockers. I have the black book (workshop manual), but not sure what I need to do. Could someone give me a step by step on how ot do this please. I've got the engine running, but its a bit hotter than before and not as smooth, so I was hoping to get these dialed in.

Various ways to adjust them properly, best known (and most accurate) is the "rule of 9"..
Looking at the motor from the front of car, there are 8 rockers across it.
Imagine they are numbered 1 to 8. The rule is when one valve rocker is at full lift ie. valve open, you adjust the corresponding one that always adds up to 9. So if #1 is at full lift adjust #8, if #4 is at full lift adjust #5, etc.
Valve clearance is .012" with stock cams, but if you have a modified cam they are usually run at wider clearance.
Cooper S are usually run at .015" for competition use.
Kent cams use .016", Russell Engineering RE-13 uses .016", both with stock rockers.

I put the car in 4th gear and roll it forwards.

BTW if you retighten the head, you should always check the rocker clearance afterwards.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Kev can do this with his eyes shut, one hand tied behind his back and half drunk Trust me I've seen it done in person more than once

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

just to clarify...when rocker number 5 fully open..means the value is fully open..so the rocker has depressed the spring to full travel.
Email sent with scan from mag

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

yep thats right, fully open means the valve is at its highest point of travel before it starts to close again.adjust number 4 if no 5 is open fully.

Yeah-That's all good.Iistead of rocking the car back&forward,try jacking one front wheel off the floor,and with Mini in 4th gear,turn the the wheel by hand and watch the rockers,and go thru the sequence.Always double check when finished,and check again that you have tighten the lock nuts.

Thanks guys, big thanks to Jim for the guide.
Will have a go later this week. I really should stop fart arsing about with this engine and get on with the floor replacement

Good tip for working in small garages

A little less chance of hitting your head on the bonnet also I think I did that three times at the Brit day

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

1. is there a specific direction of numbering them: left to right, right to left

2. if you have an automatic you have to tap the ign key

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
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forever chasing clearer skies...

numbering starts at the rad end (piston #1)

I thought you could push start mini automatics, so should be able to turn the motor over by pushing....

but instead of getting out from under the bonnet, put screwdriver across the starter solenoid, or turn the motor with the fan, a bit of pressure on the fan belt with one hand to stop it slipping, and easier with the plugs out of course...

You can push start a Minimatic. You push it to 35mph and stick it in low.
So it will not help when setting tappets.

Taking the plugs out is a great trick also..I notice this last time...just make sure you know where they go back to

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

When I had the `matic in I used to put a spanner on the alternator pulley nut, press down on top run of fan belt. It'll turn over nicely.
Don't use the plastic fan blades to turn it, they break!!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.