Matt TheMiniMan has done heaps like this, with holes in, he's never had one break.
Likewise GR.
My 1310 regularly saw 8000 on the track, no problem.

I think facing them off .200" is fine, I'm just wary of drilling big holes or (worse) milling slots thru them.
If you want it that light, go buy a steel one.....

BTW if turning them, make sure there's a nice big radius on the lathe tool, you don't want a sharp corner at bottom of cut.

And they MUST be rebalanced afterwards.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I don't personally know about a flywheel but I've seent he results of a couple of clutch plates exploding and their pieces made it into the cabin , if you are concerned in any way and the car is going to be given a hard time put a scatter shield around the clutch housing , the cast alloy isn't all that strong against flying components ...

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that sounds like a plan! im sure id regret it the one time i ended up like buck shelford (ah ha an all blacks comment!)

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

William-you could spend your money on something like this....
I don't have any problems about stalling the engine,as you are always using plenty of rev's anyway

How much

If you have to ask, you can't afford it.
Ask Minisport SA.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

No thanks... not buying from there anymore if i cant help it!!

Upon chats to GR today, I will be most likely bringing my flywheel and backing plate over to him when i am there for MDU, and getting him to machine it up and get it back to me.
He will machine .250" off the face, and also bore the outsides. This does not affect the structural inegrity of the flywheel.
I am not sure of exactly how he will be machining the backing plate, but that will be modified also.

I am buying a super-dooper 5.5" GR manifold, too.!!
(He's porting one out for me, will be ready by MDU)




GR reckons the one-piece flywheels are better to start with...
I forgot to ask why.
Does anyone know why?

is lightening the flywheel a good thing for a road motor? or only race ones...

I understand

Go straight to the source, buy from the UK. I would heartily recommend that everybody avoids the mini spares ultrlight steel flywheels. The one I had and sent to GR for balancing was about 40 thou out of round, bent 35 though with the ring gear having a run out of over 45 thou!!

All this = REALLY BAD vibration, lots of $$ wasted and me getting severely pi#$%^d off. (yes, AFTER it was Balanced.)

If you want ultralight steel get it from someone reputable such as MED engineering. About $850 for ultrlight fly, back plate new cooper s spec clutch plate, orange pressure plate, straps etc, all assembled and balanced! That is our price including freight!!

Or spend $550 or so on one from here? (bare flywheel)
Won't do that again!!

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

GR is doing my flywheel.
I have heard a one-piece is desirable, as it does not tend to 'weld' onto the taper of the crank, due to the big difference in metal types.
So I will hunt down a one-piece before Friday when I fly over to Syd

I am taking a backing plate too, he is lightening that also.

Cos they are lighter than the two piece

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

Hmmmmmmmmm anyone got a one-piece lying round that I can buy?

What model's had em? I got spare flywheel, from 850 so I guess being an 850 it would be undisirable....??

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Have a look to see if the centre is held to the rest of it by 8-10 bolts , can't remember how many but it will be obvious . Can't remember what had what but I think 850's should have had the two piece version .

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