It's already done, it's called phosphoric acid.
It converts the iron oxide into a phosphate coating, all you need then is a paint system that denies it air..
Some products also give it a hard resin-like surface that helps seal it.
When I did HaHa up 13 years ago I used Permatex (now called Loctite brand) rust converter on the back seat join after wire brushing, and I left it `black' and never painted it. Today, it still looks the same. So yes it works.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I was looking at "rust converters" the other day as I needed to buy some more. Some brands didn't state what was in them some did. I was looking for the highest concentrations of Phosphoric Acid and noted the fact that those that stated they had the acid also had the appropriate Poison Schedule labelelling - POISON in the box and Keep out of reach of Children etc at the top of the label, while the ones that didn't state what was in them didn't have any schedule label. I can't put my hands on the Poison Schedules at the moment but my guess is lack of labelling indicates a low concentration of acid (as it is used in some food stuffs eg CocaCola and would need a low cut off for labelling as a poison)

Highest concentration of acid appears to about 35% and price does not reflect concentration - Brand does with the most expensive not stateing it has any acid in it

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

It used to be sold under the name deoxidine, wipe over withrag and wash off withwater and rag, when it dries it hs a coaying of phosphate type stuff that will protect the surface for just long enoughto get the primer on, maybe overnight if your lucky and its a dry day

Jon

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

Hey Wombat! you're talking my language!

S.U.S.D.P. for phosphoric acid would be >35% to be schedule 6 and hence "POISON" on the top of the label!

<35% would be shedule 5 and should have "CAUTION" on the label, except when <15%, then outside shedules!

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

I make my own here at work

I prefer to add a solvent to the phosphoric acid like Ethylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether, then you can wipe / brush on and allow to dry as the solvent evaporates without a water rinse. I've found this will give the smooth phosphate grey coating and not rust again for several weeks.

I agree however that the best option is to prime (preferably non porous 2 pack type) as soon as possible after surface / rust treatment.

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

So that means the dearst one I saw had less than 15% active ingrediant or half the strength of the strongest that cost less

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!