I just want to add that the gain in engine power due to running a younger less worn out dissy should not be mistaken with the pulsar dissy being the right curve and producing power.

The trouble with what you are saying is that many people do run a pulsar dissy on their relatively stock motors. I myself was one of these people. Once modifed to have less total advance the gains were enormous. Some of the pulsar dissies are up to 18 degrees total advance at high RPM which is probably 5-8 degrees more than necessary. This means too advanced running at high rpm, a situation that happens all the time: freeway running.

I have heard of several people blowing head gaskets and piston rings on their relatively stock 1098's so be careful. Be very careful when mucking around with your Mini dissy curve...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

This `perceived Pulsar problem' has been blown out of all proportion. You can stuff a motor by `power timing' a Lucas too, if you just keep twisting the advance up....

Anyway, a stock 1098 dizzy #40899 had 16-18* centrifugal advance built in. That's MORE than a Pulsar.
Cooper S and 998 Cooper both had 14-16* new, more when worn.

There are 10 different A series dizzys with advertised advance of 15* or more. I have all the type numbers here.

Max advance plate I've seen in a Pulsar is 15*.

I rest my case...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Your dead right Kev,

I have recently done the same research, before promoting the conversion, and found the same data.

Its like everything, its all a big craze, then one person has a dodgey half assed attempt, then everyone follows n jumps on the band wagon. Back off, howmany other people have introduced something innavative (spelling) and new to the mini scene, at a decent price?

Dont get put off by it Doc, Give em hell


-Cam

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IS NOW BACK ONLINE AFTER SOMETIME..... SORRY TO ALL, FOR NOT REPLYING TO PM'S!!

when i get around to it i'm just gonna go with the sensible option..



a hundred and what ever dollars and less head fiddle sticks..

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I am not saying they don't work, I use one with a modified advance plate.

If it is not the case and the pulsars really do work with the stock advance plate Kev, why did you modify your plate on both minis??

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Ah ha, now this thread is getting good. Lillie I do agree, as I did say earlier, I will get a modded one done. Yes my dizzy was rebuilt, BUT it was obviously still worn. To me it's not points vs. electric. Just good curve vs. worn out one.

At the moment I'm happy with it. Dyno tune should be done in a few weeks along with the other mods, when i finish them. .

We'll see what the dyno operator says about the curve, Iread that they can 'design' a curve by running the engine to a given point, eg 2000 rpm, then adjsut to get max performance, record the require advance. Move up o 3000, do the same. So you could get a bunch of number, then put it on a graph, skecth a graph of 'best fit' and see if you can mod the dizzy, or get one built to suit your engine 100%. This would be costly, but the best option I reckon. Until you decide to mod your engine further.

As for Cush, I don't see the point in those kits, points aren't a big deal to me. But 'to each his own'

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

But will it have the right curve?

I modified it because it works better at LOW-MID RPM. No different AT ALL from 3000rpm up, but of course I don't set it static anyway, which is where people get into trouble.
Set it at the maximum advance point, where it matters- use 28-30 degrees BTDC at 4000 rpm for most A series.
Whether it has a modded plate, or NOT.

You are missing the point here anyway Chong, it being that some Lucas have more centrifugal advance than a Pulsar, and so it's just as easy to over-advance a Lucas dizzy and get the same result.
Don't blame the messenger, or the dizzy.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i doubt mine would at the moment..

so anything is and improvement..

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I ran one before any Pulsars, it worked OK in my 1310 except for Lucas spark scatter.
But the original Pertronix are not real reliable apparently, some people in USA are still blowing them up. Leave igniton on, and not running for a minute, and poof!...
see http://www.minimania.com/web/threadid/8 ... thread.cfm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i will be putting a modded D483R pulsar dizzy in my 1411cc stroker (how come you got an extra cc Doc, was it just a rounding error??), but it also has a 282 cam, will have a GR head, ported inlet manifold, 45DCOE weber, and has a rebuilt rod change with a Fred Sayers LSD in it.

As to why i chose the D483R, well with all the mods to the engine i would have had to have GR mod a points dizzy curve anyway. Frankly, as the 2 year engine changeout for my competition car shows, i have very little time or budget to work on the thing. So whenever i want to prepare the car for a track day, or whatever, one less thing to check (points gap) just suits me fine, as it is a few more minutes saved.

The engine is being built as a package, not a hotch potch of bits added on. I went to Graham, and told him what i intend to use the car for, what engine block, head, crankshaft, manifold, gearbox and budget for rockers exhaust etc were, and he has designed the package around those requirements. One of those requirements was reliability. As a result the dizzy will be modded using the dyno and the intended use and reliability requirements in mind. The maximum advance will be set using the dyno.

I have already pulled the dizzy apart and Graham had a look today. It was not the worst he has seen, but definitely needs cleaning up. I will do that and the oilway mods this week.

We shall soon see what it produces on the dyno, and i'll report on its reliability when i eventually get to use it.

I guess what this shows is it is a horses for courses thing. A pulsar dizzy is no cure all for a dying engine. if you are going to bother rebuilding an engine it is wise to rebuild all of the anciliaries as well as the guts. If there is a well priced alternative that you can rebuild and modify for the same price, then why not?

Another alternative is to go to jaycar and get a transisterised ignition kit, and build yourself a very low voltage circuit that does not destroy the points, and all you need is a soldering iron and literacy to make it work. That way you don't have the expense of a pertronix, but still have the same curve your engine was made with (assuming the engine and dizzy are stock and matched)

cheers
michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

My 12G1505 crank is now 84.33mm stroke, it was (unused) std/std size and still is.
Your stroke may be a little less, if crankpins were not still stock size when offset ground.

actually mine is 1411.8cc

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

not that there's anything wrong with that...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Hmm sounds like anything Lucas, maybe Petronix wanted to 'keep things real'. LOL.

Leave the old headlight circuit on for a minute, and poof, lots of smoke...HAHA, happened to me.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

We seem to have two camps here love it or hate it. The hate-its reckon Lucas rock, so one that isn't worn out must be tops....

And STILL nobody wants to buy the brand new Lucas dizzys I've got OR the electronic Lucas one.

Grumble grumble.







And no, I haven't rigged up the electronic one so I can test it. Anyone got an A-series and wants to test it for me? Won't fit into my A+ engines.

M