The "Bimmer Twinky" conversion parts kit is not far off at all now, My machinist is on them as i type this, there`s lots & lots of bits & pieces that make up a "FULL" kit & the "Other" makers of this kit overseas neglect to include some of those bits in their basic kit & have them as additional purchases ontop of the basic kit.
i`m trying to make all the bits needed avaliable in my kit & yet have the whole lot supplied at a better price at the same time. (& don`t forget you have freight costs, import duty, GST, & customs costs if buying an over seas kit)
There are the 2 basic cyl heads avaliable (unless you wanted to go for the later 1200cc Bimmer cyl head --> bigger valves & cams--> Yummy tell your mummy)
But the 8 valve cyl head is pretty well nearly as good as the 16v head, only a tad down on HP, (8-10Hp) but the 8 valve is slightly beeter in the torque dept lower in the revs & the 16v head is better suited to upper end revs.
The basic fitting kit is much the same, only slight differences in the 2 "Flange plates" --> one for the cam cover & the other for the lower section of the front of the head.
I`m trying to keep my kits down to around the $2000-2500mark, but we still have to wait & see when they`re all finished
Power??? you ask about power??? hee hee,,, well that`s all up to you & how much you want,,, We`ve allready seen over 150hp in naturally asspirated form,,, & well over 200hp in turbo form & it really doesn`t make "THAT" much difference which head you use,,, yes the 16v is better for the higher revs, but the 8v is better for the lower end of the rev range...& it all depends on your build & how much power you want & how much money you want to spend to get what you want. 300+hp in turbo form is not out of the question.
If you go naturally asspirated then you`ll want to spend money on some hi compression (domey top/fly cut) pistons to suit,,,
if you go the forced induction route then you`ll be looking at trimming down pistons (or buying forged to suit) & spending money on the turbo & computer
either way they`re both very very good
once fitted & running you will find that it sounds & goes just like a motorbike
very very Smooth, clean, quiet & reliable,,, yet economical when driven that way. & no more dam lumpy crap primary gear chatter, the cyl head design & the injection systems are just so dam good these days that it`s as smooth as a babys bottom.
But if you want to go fast, then just push the right peddle down... however i do recomend that you fit an orange clutch diaphram when building one of these, even in naturally asspiratted form,,, i think you will find that a blue just isn`t up to the job,,, My first engine fried the clutch while road tuning & that engine was N/A & at only 7.5:1 comp ratio... that should tell you something
