OK kool. I think im going to go for the turbo set up over the clutch but I mite see if i can draw a manifold on a 3d program before i start tryin to actually make it.

The plenum thats just off a metro turbo isnt it? Is there anything specail about it cause i was thinking of just making my own out of some stainless steel.

Blake

Yep, mine is the one off a metro turbo... there is more to them than just a box...
There are a few people on TurboMinis who have drawn manifolds in 3D programs... so yeah, give it a crack.

Peter

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Oh ok then kool well i mite see if i can find one then ive been looking and its been abit hard to find and the carby as well. But yeh thanks Blake

Hey does anyone know where the best place to look for a metro carby and plenum from? Ive looked around for the last few days and couldnt find one anywhere.
Blake

You might get lucky on eBay, otherwise have a look in the Turbominis.co.uk forum, there's always someone selling one!

I was looking at i think its "BIGBAD" im sure if im wrong someone can correct me. Anyway i was reading something about its engine being solid mounted. Does this mean that the engine is just bolt rite to the frame instead of have rubber engine mounts? Are there any advantages of doing this?

Yes, if it's a tractor.....
With an A series setup in a road car, forget it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you turbo a 1275 then you are more financialy stable than most , personally I would turbo a 998 cheaper parts to start with and easeir to obtain, it will still do everything that a 1275 will do except be able to wear a 1275 boot badge and a std. a series gearbox will hold 160hp/115lob/ft of torque

Metro A+ gearboxes are stronger than Std A series so buy a long eng. from someone who has imported it from ENGLAND , its a very good and cheap way to start.

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120bhp with 450kg just fun waiting to happen

We were prob. drunk when we set it up last and thought this will be a good idea

How would a 998 turbo be much cheaper? Turbo parts are going to cost the same. Engine work costs the same per hour. Performance parts are the same. 1275 has advantages in that it has more power, torque and a better head design standard, well worth the premium for cost for engine itself. Although I do agree 998s are easier to obtain, although I've never found finding a 1275 hard. So in the end I don't believe choosing 1275 will cost a lot more. If you consider cost per horsepower you can break even if not do better.

Also a stock A-series gearbox may be able to take that kind of power and torque figures (where did you get those numbers from?), but I'm sure the drop gears won't for too long. Well not stock ones at least. Also gearboxes got better as time went on so perhaps a 4 synchro remote change box (Mini K) would be able to take that power, but the drop gears won't. A+ boxes had larger idler gear bearings to reduce failure.

I'm speaking form experience and a recent, expensive gearbox rebuild.

Oh yes I belive A+ gearboxes are better (are metro better again?), in that the idler gear bearing is larger, but I've heard mixed opinions on whether or not the 'boxes themselves are actually stronger.

PS. Not having a go, just creating discussion.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

The A+ cases are stronger round the mainshaft bearing as they got rid of one bolt hole.
They also have a bigger idler gear shaft, and layshaft.
Against all that, the A+ gear ratios are crap compared to S ones, the helix angle on gears is greater, so you can't just drop in an S 1st motion shaft & cluster gear like you can with Mini-K and A series rodchange boxes.

Most gearbox trashing I've seen (turbo or not) is 2nd gear and the cluster gear, not the drop gears. Drop gears only seem to give probs if you don't change their needle bearings. Mine get changed EVERY time box is apart.
It's funny how a local gearbox bearing kit doesn't include these, or the outrigger bearing....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's quite possibly where mine went wrong. I can't say if they were changed or not on the first rebuild. But everyone I've mentioned this to has said they think the torque is the problem (however they are the same people who want to sell me expensive gearbox parts). The car is back on the road and I'm boosting around. So this is the real test to see if the idler lives.

Just for fun here are some pics of my idler gear.



I should also mention that an entire needle from the bearing was stuck to my sump plug. So the gear was obviously rattling around in the incomplete bearing as it turned, destroying the hardened outer layer.



Sorry about the blurry pic but basically the teeth were all damaged in some way, some almost gone completely. And yes, it still drove fine. Just made a lot of noise .

Fortunately for me, little damage was done to my engine bearings, however the same couldn't be said for my gearbox.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

too me that looks as if the bearing has failed then causing the teeth to break as the gear was wobbling due to the bearing failure. I think if it was due to torque the teth would be brocken right across.

re the 1100, 1275 thing , depends on what you want. i built an 1100 beacuse thats what i had already had obliviously a 1275 will produe more hp for boost but the 1100 are not far behind.

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1152cc turbo A-series now with 125.7hp at the wheels !

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177cc's to be exact

Yep.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T