Hi all, my current braking system is this;
Drum brakes all around and
a leaking brake bias as pictured below (it leaks out of the left end)

I'm upgrading to 7.5" Cooper discs and 60+thou rear spaced drums with correct sized shoes and 5/8th cylinders.
Seeing as I can't find a kit for my current bias I was wondering how hard it is to swap over to the rear type?

I have different MC as well that may suit the rear bias better than what's in the car now...your thoughts
And how much work is involved it changing the system over to the rear bias?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I would throw that old bias valve away (can't fix em) and find/fit a rear limiting valve from an early car instead.
I reckon any Mini with front discs regardless of M/C NEEDS 5/8" rear wheel cylinders. I found this out when emergency braking at 110KMH on the F3...
Most all Mini brake M/Cs are 0.70" bore anyway.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Perhaps the fault is due to misspelling?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I did spell check and it said it was fine



This is the other type of MC I have. Would I be able to use this brake MC and my current clutch MC together, will they both fit side by side?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Bones "break" but cars "brake"

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Q1 yes. Sorry, I didn't pay attention to the pic.
Q2 not really.
Q3 yes they will.

+.060" on the drum size makes bugger all difference in swept area or working radius..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's punctuation not spelling haha I'm right

Thanks Doc. Will I have to change the brake lines from the fire wall to the rear subby to swap over the bias?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I didn't look at this thread before this - I thought it was about the need to have a short holiday in either Victoia or NSW. Hence the bias.

Glad the question has been answered now.

Mike

Doesn't that come down to grammar, not punctuation?

If I remember right a late Clubby has a tee near where the valve would go, but the early ones have a loop in the pipe to reach the valve. So yeah will probably need the main line replaced.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I differ slightly from the advice above:

1. Yes bin the engine bay valve. It's not a bias valve anyway, it's a fail safe device.

2. Rather than fit a second hand mini rear bias valve of dubious value, fit a new after market adjustable bias valve and spend some time out skidding and setting it correctly.

who honestly gives a f***

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00' Forester GT

Yep you can get those from Wilwood among others, good idea.
Just remember in Oz it's illegal to have it accessible from in the car.

BTW no Mini here ever had a rear mounted bias valve, it was a pressure limiting valve....

<edit> typo

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Recently I noticed that the Rover 8.4" disc set up in the 1994 I imported had the larger (3/4") rear cylinders as standard. The horizontal, boosted MC must suit larger rear cylinders.

M

I have seen the rear type with a bolt in one of the holes that can be screwed in or out to regulate flow to the rear, that would act as an adjustable bias correct.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.