Does anyone on here have experience with the Opcon Autorotors that Link Automotive and High Performance Products sell. http://www.hi-flow.com/

What compression ratio are people running with these? How much boost?

The Toyota blower setup that people use, is it purchased as a kit? What sort of $$$ figure? Can the SC type blowers be rebuilt?

What needle works well with a blown A-series and an S.U.?

My motor is a 1330, with the head and cam work done by GR back in 2000. What cam profiles suit blown A-series motors?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

What happened? Did you get overtaken going up the range to Kuranda??

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I only mentioned to Steve (justminis) yesterday that i dont think ive ever driven my car on the Kuranda Range. Were thinking of doing a run up that way. Next month.

So no, but since jumping out of my ute and into the mini. It does feel......er... a little slower.... Ive toyed with the idea of a blower since reading about the brown LS Link Automotive used as a mule in a Mini Magic Magazine.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Opcon superchargers are one of the best out there. Volumetric efficiency of 98% or something close to that. SC only have around 50% I believe.
My set up had 8.5:1 comp and ran ~9psi, 12Psi being the max from a SC or bye bye rotor coating.. Rebuild?? just get another one i'd say..
Ben's kit includes all fitment parts required. SC12 and HIF carb you supply yourself.. My kit was around the $850 mark. I was desperate for the blower and paid $400, carb $150 NOS.

Check with GR on your cam specs as I had to change from an RE13 to RE13T as the overlap was too great. As long as the cam is not too wild I'd say it would be fine.
Needles I can't help you with. It will run with whatever you have atm, just get it tuned after it's running. (Rolling road not a necessity )

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Carl
Previous Owner & Driver of 1 Morris "It's not a Cooper!!" 850

Cheers. Thanks for the info. So the SC kits is pretty cheap then but power gains may not be as great. You get what you pay for i guess. My cam was done by GR 8yrs ago so id say the specs would have gone bye bye.

I was considering shipping the entire power unit to GR to run up no the engine dyno to tune it. Im fairly clued up with my twin 1/4's but ive never dealt with a blown carb'd engine b4 so tuning it could be interesting. We have no dyno shops up here that even know what an S.U. is. Plus i dont want the car at a w/shop.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Response from High Performance Products.

Thank you for your enquiry.

Our supercharger kit is designed to be fitted to a basically stock engine.
Provided the engine is in good condition, and within manufacturers tolerances there is generally no extraordinary mods. required in the milder stages of tune.

Bearing in mind that some of these vehicles are now nearly 40 years old, and more than likely, have been rebuilt or modified from the standard specification, this must be taken into account when designing a successful supercharger system. Many rebuilt engines have a higher than original comp. ratio, and camshaft changes are often made at the time of rebuild.
However, many mod's which work with conventional tuning can also be successfully employed on supercharged applications.
Generally we find that the 96 octane (roughly similar to 91 US) fuel available here is the limiting factor in safe power production.
Therefore we need to ascertain the actual ratio of each individual vehicle to establish just how much boost could safely be used. We tailor each kit to suit chosen engine spec. and available fuel octane.
Excellent results have been possible with 8.0 and 8.5: 1 comp. ratios.

Prior to delivery we will require the following engine details:
Bore size (if altered from stock)
Stroke (if altered from stock)
Compression ratio, (or preferably cc of comb. chamber, cc of piston bowl, deck height)
Fuel (octane rating) available
Desired boost (or power) be realistic now !!!!!
Camshaft timing profile,
Fuel (octane rating) available
Power would start around 30% improvement over standard and could reach 100% given the correct set-up.
In our kit fuel requirements are taken of by the SU HIF 6 carby supplied (the metering needle fitted may require slight changes to suit each individual installation). The distributor advance curve should, ideally, be modified to suit the engine's new requirement, or we can supply a brand new Bosch distributor with a suitable curve.

Our comprehensive kit includes all components (incl. new SU carby and K&N filter) to convert a standard Mini to a supercharged Mini, including detailed fitting notes.

The list price (for current stock) of our Mini kit is $5375.00 AUD plus GST,
Anticipated price for next production batch $5850.00 AUD plus GST.

If the above appeals and the decision to "go ahead" is made we will gladly run all engine specs thru' our software program to ensure a happy engine "package" is planned. There are many choices.
Let us know !

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I've personally always liked this kit, my limiting factor was cost really. The SC12 can still get good results, the benefit of the opcon is that it will get the same power for a set blower rpm. Therefore less heat, and the other benefits associated with a cooler intake temp.

It looks like they take the hard work out of it, as far as making it specific for each car. Not that Ben doesn't, but you will get everything you need in the one hit and it's all brand spankin' new! The hardest part for you would be finding the cc of combustion chamber etc. Unless you previously fitted flat tops, it should be all good..

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Carl
Previous Owner & Driver of 1 Morris "It's not a Cooper!!" 850

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I'm happy with my SC12 Mini but would be fun to compare the kits for cost against performance gain.

If you listen (or in your case probably read) everything Ben tells you, you should be fine. It's trying to find a better or different way of doing things that takes up time effort and money on top.

Ben told me once that he looked at the Link kit and thought it was good, but expensive. So he went about making his own kit for his race car. Which was quite fast. I'm don't think he still races that car, last I heard it was getting sa Rover K-series transplant to go even faster...??

IMO if you want to stick A-series then go for whatever you want but when $5K+ is involved and that's for bolt on parts to an engine, a conversion is starting to look great, and that's the path I've moved down.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

The motor/box/diff would all get a full rebuild at the same time. So id get a burette and figure out the volume of the piston/chamber.



I dont want to try and do an engine conversion to a shell thats already built. But i think it would wind up close to $15k? $5800 for the blower, $6K for motor/box/diff rebuild/strengthen. Plus a few $$$ to get it dyno'd and tuned.

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Just throwing this idea out there... If you don't mind doing a custom job then you could look at the rotrex superchargers, these are very efficient and they are tiny, linked to an intercooler and blow through 1 3/4 SU it would run well I reckon.
But it's all up to how you want to do it...

Blow through would require pressure sealed SU though wouldnt it?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

Metro Turbo Carby.

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

I've read that an HIF6 or HIF44 can be converted to suit blow through rather easily.

Maybe a few on here have done it? But many have done it on www.turbominis.co.uk

I'd have to say that a Rotrex would be kickass.

Oh, I agree with you on the rebuilt shell part. It's a lot of nice paint that would need to be scratch and cut to fit it all in.

I was going to convert an already road going car, but decided to go the long way and start on a new shell. This has the advantages of building the right car and building it properly, but the cost will be big. I still think I will come under $15K for the finished car. But of course, only time will tell...

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

No personal experience but my neighbour has recently had the Link blower put on his Riley Elf. It goes like **** off a shovel but it cost $4.5K
He won't mind me passing on any questions if you want someones opinion who has one.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club