I have a few types and I was wondering if any are better that the others?
I had the one in the tray on the car but the bias started leaking so I was wanting to use the tin (bottom of pic) type, because I think it will take up the least amount of space what are your opinions?

Also if I use the tin type I will have to install a rear subframe mounted bias, I've seen and heard that they can be modified with a bolt in the back of them and a ball bearing to make them manually adjustable....good idea or not? (I wont be moding it myself I'll just buy one that's already done)

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

the best one is the one in the pan on the left it has a line for front and back like all the new cars have.

Thats the "twin circuit" design, in theory it should be safer by having two isolated circuits but I have heard from previous threads that in practice this is not necessarily the case...

Also I'll take one of those tin tank ones off your hands

The problem with the "twin circuit" set up is the bias is leaking and they can not be rebuilt

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

you can have new lines made and leave the leaking unit out, it really only works as a way of having the brake failure light set up with a pressure shuttle type piston set up that triggers if one side looses pressure, not really good for anything except leaking and making more connections

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

It also limits pressure to the back, does it not? If you remove it, I would fit the earlier type brake bias valve to the rear subframe - these are still available new.

That `FAM' valve in there is a rear bias or limiting valve, not a brake failure indicator. The rear subby had a tee not a limit valve.
Best to toss it, and fit a new rear valve instead. You can still buy these new.
As said the whole tandem MC idea was to meet ADRs, I have seen how these Mini ones don't really work.. if you don't believe me go open a rear bleed nipple and see how much pedal you get then.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Mini king Australia have reconditioned bias valves $150.00 exchange, If this is of any help

I was always of the impression that some dual circuit systems had the brake failure indicator in the master cylinder, while some had it in the bias valve.

is there a different rear bias valve for a disc brake front compared to a drum front
?

The best one is the one with the bore that is least rooted

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

The cooper s did have a different bias valve to mini deluxe etc,However i believe that the standard ones work fine. The bias valve i mentioned before is for the split system Sorry i did not mention that before

Just keep in mind that if you use the twin circuit MC that you will have to use a tin type clutch MC. (As I found out after rebuilding my nice clubby plastic res type)

If I leave the tandem bias out what's the need/point of having the bulky tandem MC? and I don't have a brake fail light .


So the tandem system dose not work anyway you think the ADR's would have covered it working properly .

Both the tins I have are old clutch MC, will one work as a brake MC with no problems? (so long as I put a rear bias in the car).

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.