Ok, picked up a magnetic sump plug today and soon as i looked at it thought to myself sure mine is bigger than this(Also remembered thinking i thought my sump plug was BIG)

So got home and checked it straight away, yep my sump plug must have been tightened with a BFB in a previous life and fooked the thread, so my question is whats best to do...

1. drill reccess in current sump plug and fit magnet i can get from a mate that came out of a mini magnet sump plug(was loose he pulled it out)

2. Match current sump plug with long ish bolt, then machine it down aka extend magnet sump plug and reccess magnet in end so further into gearbox.

3. Match current sump plug, drill and tap to standard sump plug size and locktite it in and use the standard magnetic plug.

Also whats good for sticking magnet in if that best idea?!

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Ps. Also fitted rare earth magnets on filter, just in case you wondering.

Thanks

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New from the UK and wanting a NICE little British car!

What I did, so I could use the original sump plug:


Drilled / tap out old stripped thread to 3/4" UNF (make sure you tap thread square, otherwise flange will not seal)

Screw the new high tensile threaded bush into sump using a copper washer on the flange and loctite. Hey presto, new High Tensile thread to screw your original sump plug into. Will never strip again.

Hope this helps. Worked for me.

Steve

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"Boris" - '69 Cooper S Mk 2

If you can have the plug out for a week, post to me and I'll fit a super strength `rare earth' magnet into it. NO charge.
I did one last week, same problem.

Or you can do it. I used a 1/4 dia x 1/2" long magnet. Drilled the hole 6.5mm diameter x 4.5mm deep and used Loctite 609.

I pushed it into the hole without Loctite just to try fit, could not pull it back out without using pliers. Bloody strong they are.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

is that possible to tap gearbox casing in situ!?

Best way to flush filings!?

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New from the UK and wanting a NICE little British car!

lots of oil

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Yep you can do it in situ, put grease all over the drill and also the tap to catch most of the swarf. Then 1/2 fill it with cheap oil, drain out to get any remaining swarf, then fill again.

If you are tapping it out to fit a bigger plug, it is difficult to get the end face square. If not square the plug will leak.
The way 4myego did it is a better solution.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

will check the thread on current oversize plug to check size etc.. may be the better solution to take you up on the offer Doc as mini ain't going anywhere for a while!

Thinking it maybe over tapped with current thread as pretty course looking!

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New from the UK and wanting a NICE little British car!

[quote="4myego"][quote]

Excellent, better than a re-coil and it will allow for any slight angle difference.

My latest mini i also found a bigger bolt in the sump with no magnet, so i did a dodge and glued (araldite) 6 neo magnets to the end of the thread. With the bolt in the vice i couldn't snap them off. From outside the box that plug can hold up a 13/16 1/2 drive socket.

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

The original sump plug thread was 5/8" UNC.
The one I put a magnet in last week was tapped out to 3/4" UNC. The plug was a shortened hex setscrew.
These coarse threads are better in alloy than UNF, as they are deeper and less likely to strip if overtightened.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My helicoiled sump plug hole is leaking with the engine just sitting there so I guess the hole was not quite square. Plug is tight with a new copper washer.

Wondering if I araldite a copper washer to the sump - do the plug up until it just touchs and 'self levels' the washer against the plug and let the araldite fill the gap. I'll pull the plug out when the araldite is green so it doesn't lock it in place.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

What about a hydraulic plug? Get one with an 'o' ring on it?
Would a copper washer be necessary then?

if u need a ergent fix do what a member on hear did a few months ago got a cork and jammed it in his sump plug hole he recons it was good for up to 100km

that would be me Yea it works wonders I would fully recomend it! I now just have a brass plug, with gas fitting thread on it, and drilled a hole down the inside and placed a magnet in there with 5 minute alridite, works fine, its held for over 900km since.

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

You could always consider one of these. Been thinking about grabbing one to play with...

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

oooo aaaahhhh