Anybody got a seal kit handy...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I just checked & they`re the same size bore top & bottom,,, (shows i can`t remember everything hey?)

so i spose it won`t really matter which way the pipes go hey?

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Very interesting!! Quite an interesting topic really.
A tandem system I saw today (albeit it was on a Rover), had the bottom fitting going to the rear lines.
THE PLOT THICKENS!

But if it doesn't matter, then it doesn't matter.
Fingers crossed it doesn't matter!

Top is rear and bottom is front, that way if the fluid level falls you will still have front brakes ( well supposed to anyway )
Cheers Pete

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A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

[ edit] Dunno what happened here, I think I changed my mind about posting...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Shouldn't a Rover have a diagonal split system?

Some Rovers did, but then they woke up...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well,,, i`m not well versed on Rover diag split systems but i`m assuming that the Master would have to be same bore top & bottom too,,, so it probably still wouldn`t matter

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Just to add to the mounting evidence...top one goes to the front on this 50,000k 1275LS (Obviously a "pre-engine fix up" photo...)

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

nah,,,, it looks like the top is going to the rear (single outlet on the valve is rear) on that one Mick

& i`m really starting to believe that the top is "Meant" to be to the rear,,, Dad`s 1275LS is also top to the rear & it`s std factory never been stuffed with,,, BUT!!! as the cyl bore sizes are the same top & bottom,,, the only reason i can see why the top should be rear is for that fluide level thing that Deluxe-68 mentioned.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

This has got me a little bit concerned.

But... I am going to do the top outlet to the rear brakes.
I hope I don't have to re-make my lines if this isn't right

A very interesting topic, none the less.

Check it out!!!!



Me = HAPPY!!!

Very nice, William. What are those Wilwood valves worth??

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Most shops sell for around the $130.00 mark.
I paid a bit over $100 for mine... its good to have contacts

Looks very nice, good to see you didn't use that teflon coated pipe. The plating is better to look at

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.