Replaced mates cv joint in his van splines to big in diameter had to linish down then the thread was wrong 18x1.5 instead of unf, lucky I have a lathe to turn and rethread nut or car would still be at my place why can't they supply nut if they change things

I agree.
I had one recently on mini mad's car where the thread was metric, nut was supplied but 5mm too thick for the pin to go through.
I torqued it up, marked which slot, then milled that one 5mm deeper.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i bought one cv from minisport, and another from minitopia, both new, both looked the same.

but they both have a different thread and nut. one is 1 1/4, the other is 1 1/8.

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

You know what else annoys me, rear wheel bearing kits, the split pins are too big!

Ah, so it's not just my bad luck then

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Yeap in the last year and a half i've had 4 different types of CV's with different thread/nut combos, nuts that are wrong, and the same deal with the splines too big as kev said...bloody stupid.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Your ears must have been burning!!! I was just bitching about that earlier

"""Nothing""" is difficult,,, & the imposible just takes a little longer

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

It just really annoys me when manufacturers make a product but they don't take a moment to think wether the split pin is right, or for example, a cv boot kit for some modern car i did a while back, it came with plastic cable ties, which weren't even big enough to go around the cv joint.... (not to mention they weren't metal ties, so i used welding wire). EPIC FAIL i say