Actually, they do come out very easy. It's a bit like putting the bolts in the engine mounts.........no trouble at all...

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they are a press fit... I leave em there and make a lurethane or steel bush to suit.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

me three . . . i have seen them lock-wired, self tapper in them, replced with a bolt . . . etc etc because the roll pin was coming out or had fallen out due to the wear of both the shaft and the coupling . . .
personally I like the rod change over the remote but they both have thier good and bad points.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

Have had to go away for work for a couple of weeks, will let you know the outcome when I get back. Thanks for the tips.

For the un-intiated how can I tell the difference between rod/remote change?

I'm back and just checked the car.
Just to refresh the topic, the car had been sitting for a while, When I first drove it the gears weren't to bad to select, the more I drove it that day the harder it was to find gears and basically grinded or crunched when trying to find gears. End of the drive basically undriviable.
Checks as advised|
I just checked the linkages they appeared fine. When I go to put it in gear whilst running, will not engage just grind. If I try and start the car in gear with the clutch pedal depressed the car will lunge as if in gear, also then hard to get out of that gear. The clutch arm does travel quite a distance but am unsure if it has pressure.
Any help please.

Sounds like the ball at the end of the clutch arm is broken. remove it and inspect it for wear and shape. Also take the time to check the clevis pin for wear as well.
It should look like

If the end is like this one then it is ok. But if it is straight or worn a fair bit it won't play well with the rest of the setup.

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Pulled the arm out and it is quite worn on the ball on oneside & the hole also looks worn.

Sometimes when the arm gets really worn they crack under the pivot point too, can be hard to see under all the goop that ends up down there, but that often accounts for the suddenly-my-clutch-is-not-working-so-good--Oop-it's-gone syndrome

cheers

Jacob

Don't have a spare, so when I locate one will try the easy fix first, if no luck will then take the flywheel cover off.

Clean and inspect the base of the clutch arm. as they crack there and flex when in use giving the same symptoms you describe and can happen as quickly as yours did, wear can be overcome with adjustment to an extent. i dont think that is the cause of his problem here, something is/has failed

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So, you think that this worn arm may not be the problem. Any other possible suggestions.