Ausmini
It is currently Fri Aug 08, 2025 10:30 pm

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Broke wheel stud-nut.
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:28 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2008 11:14 am
Posts: 1906
Location: Brisbane Qld, North side
he lads.

my superman strength, lol i broke a wheel stud on my 8.4 disk brakes.

i have a new one on order.

is there a how to? i have never replaced one, im not sue what to do, is there any tools i need?

can it be done on the car? or do i need to take the whole disk brake out to do it.

thanks.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:33 pm 
Offline
Mods rock!
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 9:02 pm
Posts: 5079
You'll need to take the drive flange off the disc. There are several different studs so I trust that you have ordered the correct one.

40ft/lb no more.

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:33 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:08 pm
Posts: 542
Location: Belconnen, Canberra
I did exactly the same thing on my 7.5" brakes a few weeks ago.

If 8.4" brakes are setup the same as the little ones then the studs are a piece of cake to replace. I just gently drifted the remains of the old stud out using a centre punch and put the new one in from the back. I then used a standard wheel nut to pull the new one all the way in and Bob's your uncle.

It's probably not a bad idea to put a small spray of WD40 on each of the studs before replacing the nuts.

Cheers,
Simon

edit - I just read GT Mowog's post. I didn't need to take the flange off mine, so maybe the bigger disks are different.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:35 pm 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
with 8.4 discs, you need to remove the road wheel, loosen the 3 bolts through the drive flange into the dic, take the big center nut off,,, & then tak the caliper off (2bolts) but you can leave the hose attached & rest the caliper onto a tin or block of some sort so you don`t stretch the hose

& then tak out the 4 bolts holding the flange to the rotor, take the flange to a vise & smack it out with a punch,,, smack the new one back in & whack it all back together

i have done it on the car by removing the caliper & taking the 4 drive flange bolts out & pushing the disc back away from the flange & with a bit of a fiddle & fart-arse & swearing you can get the old one out leaving the big center nut on so the flange is still attached to the CV , butt it`s a right pain in the butt

take the flange out & do it on the bench/vise , it`s much easier

cooper"S" ones are way easier,,,you can just smack em out & pry the new one back in

:-)

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:37 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:08 pm
Posts: 542
Location: Belconnen, Canberra
Oh well. Looks like another good reason to go for 7.5" disks :)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:40 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2008 11:14 am
Posts: 1906
Location: Brisbane Qld, North side
GT mowog wrote:
You'll need to take the drive flange off the disc. There are several different studs so I trust that you have ordered the correct one.

40ft/lb no more.


i ordered from lindsay, i would assume rover disk brakes would be all the same?

what is the difference.

i know 40ft i was told so many times :p my bad.

thanks matt, bit of fuffing around then! bah.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:48 pm 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
Nah ,,,it`s pretty easy & quick mate,,,

you`ll need an 1"&5/16ths socket for the big center(CV) nut tho,,, or a motha shifter

a 9/16ths spanner (or socket) for the caliper bolts ,,, easy

& a 9/16ths socket & breaker bar for the drive flange bolts,,,again pretty easy

& yes max tightness on both the drive flange bolts & the wheel nuts is actually 42lbs,,, but 40 is fine too :-)

I """ALWAYS"""" use a torque wrench on "ALL" wheel nuts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:51 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2008 11:14 am
Posts: 1906
Location: Brisbane Qld, North side
TheMiniMan wrote:
Nah ,,,it`s pretty easy & quick mate,,,

you`ll need an 1"&5/16ths socket for the big center(CV) nut tho,,, or a motha shifter

a 9/16ths spanner (or socket) for the caliper bolts ,,, easy

& a 9/16ths socket & breaker bar for the drive flange bolts,,,again pretty easy

& yes max tightness on both the drive flange bolts & the wheel nuts is actually 42lbs,,, but 40 is fine too :-)

I """ALWAYS"""" use a torque wrench on "ALL" wheel nuts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


yep i have been told this many times!!! i think it's time i buy one.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:55 pm 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
ick,,, funny as this may sound,,, it`s probably more of a "Past-fatigue" that`s caused it,,, tyre shops are renowned for using big impact rattle guns on wheel nuts & most of em dont realise that the P!$$y litlle mini nuts need P!$$y little torque,,,so their big phat rattle guns just stretch the sh!t outa them

then you change a wheel & snappo,,,

that`s the usual scinerio anyways :-)

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:27 pm 
Offline
NAV-MAN
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 1:50 am
Posts: 1672
Location: Nothern Brisvegas
What Matt said, plus i like to make sure the threads are nice and clean too, that way you know how tight they really are

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:31 pm 
Offline
Bimmer Twinky
User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
& add a little "dash" of copper-coat to the threads before fitting the nuts,,, makes em all nice next time :-)

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 6:52 am 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:13 pm
Posts: 98
Location: Melbourne
Just a thought but if you broke one and you are going to the effort of removing the flange why not replace all 4...

If ones broken due to abuse/fatigue/age etc. then its not unreasonable to assume the others may be weak/compromised too?

Personally I would go the whole hog and replace all studs on both sides to do the job properly and be sure... But I am a belts and braces kind of guy...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:58 pm 
Offline
1275cc
1275cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:03 pm
Posts: 2729
Location: Out in the shed cleaning up my own mess.
I agree. The remaining studs are probably approaching their 45th anniversary and close to retirement age. Lash out & replace the lot.

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 96 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.