he lads.

my superman strength, lol i broke a wheel stud on my 8.4 disk brakes.

i have a new one on order.

is there a how to? i have never replaced one, im not sue what to do, is there any tools i need?

can it be done on the car? or do i need to take the whole disk brake out to do it.

thanks.

You'll need to take the drive flange off the disc. There are several different studs so I trust that you have ordered the correct one.

40ft/lb no more.

_________________

I did exactly the same thing on my 7.5" brakes a few weeks ago.

If 8.4" brakes are setup the same as the little ones then the studs are a piece of cake to replace. I just gently drifted the remains of the old stud out using a centre punch and put the new one in from the back. I then used a standard wheel nut to pull the new one all the way in and Bob's your uncle.

It's probably not a bad idea to put a small spray of WD40 on each of the studs before replacing the nuts.

Cheers,
Simon

edit - I just read GT Mowog's post. I didn't need to take the flange off mine, so maybe the bigger disks are different.

with 8.4 discs, you need to remove the road wheel, loosen the 3 bolts through the drive flange into the dic, take the big center nut off,,, & then tak the caliper off (2bolts) but you can leave the hose attached & rest the caliper onto a tin or block of some sort so you don`t stretch the hose

& then tak out the 4 bolts holding the flange to the rotor, take the flange to a vise & smack it out with a punch,,, smack the new one back in & whack it all back together

i have done it on the car by removing the caliper & taking the 4 drive flange bolts out & pushing the disc back away from the flange & with a bit of a fiddle & fart-arse & swearing you can get the old one out leaving the big center nut on so the flange is still attached to the CV , butt it`s a right pain in the butt

take the flange out & do it on the bench/vise , it`s much easier

cooper"S" ones are way easier,,,you can just smack em out & pry the new one back in

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Oh well. Looks like another good reason to go for 7.5" disks

i ordered from lindsay, i would assume rover disk brakes would be all the same?

what is the difference.

i know 40ft i was told so many times :p my bad.

thanks matt, bit of fuffing around then! bah.

Nah ,,,it`s pretty easy & quick mate,,,

you`ll need an 1"&5/16ths socket for the big center(CV) nut tho,,, or a motha shifter

a 9/16ths spanner (or socket) for the caliper bolts ,,, easy

& a 9/16ths socket & breaker bar for the drive flange bolts,,,again pretty easy

& yes max tightness on both the drive flange bolts & the wheel nuts is actually 42lbs,,, but 40 is fine too

I """ALWAYS"""" use a torque wrench on "ALL" wheel nuts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

yep i have been told this many times!!! i think it's time i buy one.

ick,,, funny as this may sound,,, it`s probably more of a "Past-fatigue" that`s caused it,,, tyre shops are renowned for using big impact rattle guns on wheel nuts & most of em dont realise that the P!$$y litlle mini nuts need P!$$y little torque,,,so their big phat rattle guns just stretch the sh!t outa them

then you change a wheel & snappo,,,

that`s the usual scinerio anyways

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

What Matt said, plus i like to make sure the threads are nice and clean too, that way you know how tight they really are

_________________

& add a little "dash" of copper-coat to the threads before fitting the nuts,,, makes em all nice next time

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Just a thought but if you broke one and you are going to the effort of removing the flange why not replace all 4...

If ones broken due to abuse/fatigue/age etc. then its not unreasonable to assume the others may be weak/compromised too?

Personally I would go the whole hog and replace all studs on both sides to do the job properly and be sure... But I am a belts and braces kind of guy...

I agree. The remaining studs are probably approaching their 45th anniversary and close to retirement age. Lash out & replace the lot.

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.