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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 10:01 pm 
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MiniKit wrote:
After trying to get Hetty going for five nights in a row, reading every post to do with setting static timing I've not been having much luck because my brain has been bobbing around in a pool of mucus (I's gots the flu). :cry:

I am finally well enough and my brain is finally functioning that I read through everything again and it made sense. Pulled everything apart (again) reset everything to where it is supposed to be, I squirted some "Start ya Bastard" down the carby and turned her over..... Bare in mind however that the full exhaust system is not on yet... Pop Pop Pop she went with beautiful blue flames beltching from the extractors. I thought to myself "Perhaps doing this on the carpet in the shed isn't such a good idea". :shock:

I turned the lights off and went inside beer in hand..

She can be put back together tomorrow... :)

Should have started not just popped, it sounds like your dizzy is 180° out.
If you line up the timing marks, then fit the dizzy driveshaft in as per the manual's picture, it is 180° out.
Why?
Because when the timing dots are aligned, yes it is at TDC, but firing on #4, not #1.
Every A series is like this- you need to turn the motor over 1 turn before fitting the dizzy shaft. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 10:27 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Ahhhhh so hypothetically, if I put the timing marks on the flywheel to 5 degrees BTDC and then advanced the cam clockwise until the No 1 Inlet valve just started to open would the Dizzy shaft be in the correct position then as the Manual shows?


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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 11:52 am 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
MiniKit wrote:
Ahhhhh so hypothetically, if I put the timing marks on the flywheel to 5 degrees BTDC and then advanced the cam clockwise until the No 1 Inlet valve just started to open would the Dizzy shaft be in the correct position then as the Manual shows?


no - that's not what you want...

scientific publications manual #64 wrote:
rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction until No 1 piston is at tdc on it's compression stroke.


TDC on the compression stroke is when the piston is at the top of the bore, and both valves are completely shut


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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 1:00 pm 
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simon k wrote:
MiniKit wrote:
Ahhhhh so hypothetically, if I put the timing marks on the flywheel to 5 degrees BTDC and then advanced the cam clockwise until the No 1 Inlet valve just started to open would the Dizzy shaft be in the correct position then as the Manual shows?


no - that's not what you want...

scientific publications manual #64 wrote:
rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction until No 1 piston is at tdc on it's compression stroke.


TDC on the compression stroke is when the piston is at the top of the bore, and both valves are completely shut

The 2 valves on #4 cylinder then will be both partly open (ie rockers tight).
Basically like I said, rotate the engine 1 full turn from when the timing marks are aligned. Then fit the dizzy driveshaft as per the book.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 4:02 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Ipswich
Masked and painted cylinder head.

sanded and repainted the timing cover as the finish was not quite right.

sorted through more bolts and nuts, located where they go and began pre-assembly.

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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 4:11 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I removed the Bling MED balancer from the 1412 stroker, to Loctite it to the crank nose.
When I removed the pulley bolt I found that with a belt drive cam kit (which moves the pulley out 3mm), there is only about 4 threads of the bolt engaged.... :shock:
I better get a longer (competition) C-AHT147 bolt/washer, or failing that machine 3mm off the underside of the bolt head. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 5:33 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sat May 30, 2009 9:08 pm
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Location: a chick from C/W NSW!
well after 3 months of whinging and bitching about the door/windows rubbers, i finally got the glass back in both doors now :D !

A little bit dodgy looking in spots (they were a bastard to line up in the passenger side!) but as long as people ignore it when they see it, I'm good :lol: !

Now to fix 10 mm gap in passenger door when closed...................... :roll: !

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**purple '68 deluxe!**
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***FINALLY wearing number plates----yeaaaaaah baby! ***


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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 6:50 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
did some more cutting and welding in my traveller...


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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 9:29 pm 
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Much to my delight I got Hetty Started this evening when I came home from work.. Many thanks for the help guys... Cheers!


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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 12:02 am 
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Did all the brake lines in the back end of the Van to the T piece at the front.
Fitted the push button starter & also the Bonnet :shock:

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 12:10 am 
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Location: Causing mayhem in northern rAdelaide
I did an oil and filter change and discovered the guys at motor traders would sell me 6 x Z418's for $32 8)
The oil came out black as expected but still opaque, so things are clean in there.

There was however a paper thin bit of steel stuck to the magnet, bout 3 X 8 mm :? .....

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kimini wrote:
:mrgreen: It's the boobs and testosterone that make this place fun-ner :lol: !!

Jimmyinamini wrote:
It's not nice to throw spank on the floor.


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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 5:48 pm 
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Pulled apart the dash in the deluxe for the umpteenth time. The previous owner put a clubby loom in so I ended up putting a triple gauge cluster in as well and most of it worked. That was until I decided to go somewhere at night and I realised the dash lights weren't working.

Anyway, pulled the custom dash apart to take out the cluster. Swapped a few bulbs out (one definitely blown) but still no go, although the oil light now works. Disconnect everyhting, take the printed circuit off and clean all the contacts and refit. Still no go. Realise that none of the wiring diagrams match reality so slowly work my way through the dash connecter tracing everything (and annotating the diagram s I go) . Eventually discover the correct wire for the lights, trace it back and find that it is the wrong colour and not connected to anything. Poke around and find the correct colour wire, also not connected to anything. Both wires have female connecters. Replace connecter with male connecter, join them up and bingo! Everything now works.

Now that the dash is apart I'll do some more work prettying it up but that can wait for tomorrow.

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 5:54 pm 
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ordered my megajolt lite jr, and EDAS4 kit from the states.. just need to get the trigger wheel etc off of 92, and bye bye dissy!

:D

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tim
68 Deluxe 1293, HIF44, megajolt/EDIS4, daihatsu alternator..

'a mini is for life, not just for christmas!'


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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 6:41 pm 
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Location: Ridin' the rails somewhere
Spent the first half of the day knocking up a lifting frame out of scrap that was left behind by the previous owner of our house.

Then proceeded to lift the engine out (the HARD way) of my '63 without a block and tackle - got it out :D

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver :D
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project



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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 6:51 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
superSeven wrote:
ordered my megajolt lite jr, and EDAS4 kit from the states.. just need to get the trigger wheel etc off of 92, and bye bye dissy!

:D


woo hoo!


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