The guides these days don't normally need reaming after fitting but the seats will need re-cutting.

_________________

I beg to differ, if you use the bronze guides.
They close down in size a bit when fitted.
They tend to close even more after a heat cycle or two.
If/when they grab a valve, you will be real sorry... $$S wise. Ask some of the racers out there.
The bronze ones definitely need reaming (I use a new 9/32" solid reamer) after fitting. Then recut the seats.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

[/quote]Mate I spent the 1st 12 weeks of my apprenticeship filing and chipping steel. I have the callouses to prove it.
Did teach me how to file flat though. [/quote]

I'm guessing a railway apprentice Kev. as i did the same

_________________
"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

Mate I spent the 1st 12 weeks of my apprenticeship filing and chipping steel. I have the callouses to prove it.
Did teach me how to file flat though. [/quote]

I'm guessing a railway apprentice Kev. as i did the same[/quote]

Check. NSWGR, they still had some steam locos working way back then.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm guessing a railway apprentice Kev. as i did the same[/quote]

Check. NSWGR, they still had some steam locos working way back then.[/quote]

Yep it's a wonder that we're still kicking with all that asbestos lagging on those things

_________________
"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

So cast-iron guides don't shrink at all from the interference fit?? Seems at odds from what I was always told, which is that guides ALWAYS need reaming!

Does anyone cut their own valve seats, and if so could you point me towards a tool I could buy/borrow? Or is it not worth it and I should just head off to the machine shop instead?

cheers

Jacob

_________________
'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

Cast iron guides don't shrink, I always try the solid reamer in them but nothing comes out.
If you want the best of both worlds, get your old guides K-lined.
These are a thin bronze liner that is fitted into your (machined out) old guides.
Costs around $140+ to get them done in Sydney.
I gave up cutting valve seats by hand years ago. I fit new guides, then head for Graham Russell..

[edit] typo

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I always check the guides but in the last 10 or so years never had any that needed reaming.

I have a few Neway Valve seat cutters but they are a bit pricey if your only doing a few heads. Repco used to (still have?) a grinding type tool, a place I used to work at had one but I thought it crap as the ginding wheels where the wrong material and wouldn't hold there shape / angle, so the seat face ended up rounded rather than flat.

_________________

The stones neen trimming to keem them at the correct angle/shape

I have hand seat-cutters here but i only use them as a rough guide/start to get the seats all sitting in the right spot/height,,, then have them stoned, blued & sucked sounds kinda kinky hey?

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.