So i finally pulled the block off the box, got me thinkin... ive got a couple 1100 cranks here, is it worth the $600 to redi-strip it, bore it and chuck some 100 thou 1100 pistons and rings in? it is the original block (number matched to car) which is what i am a little apprehensive about... but hell.... why not right?

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Go for it! There ain't no replacement for displacement...
1/2 the 998s out there seem to have a 1098 crank these days.
It'll give you torque, something a Moke needs and a 998 lacks.
But I'd make it +.080", then you have 1 rebore still up your sleeve.
Or, if you want to save some $$$ use +.060" Hypatecs, they are cheap but good. That'll still give 1152cc.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That was my thinking with the 1 rebore left...

Tell me more about these Hypatecs....?

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Understand the apprehension there. Get another block, they are (usually) cheap $20 to $50...



For a very cheap piston they do take a hiding. I've had some very good success with these. Certainly in almost any 998 or 1100 you'd be very happy with them. Just be sure you get supplied the correct (Hastings) Rings.

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cool, what sort of price are they and where is the best place to acquire said pistons and rings?

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

I'm usng Hypatecs in the Nb race mini.... so they can take a hiding...

Probably get at most of the usual suspects....

Lindsay has them at http://www.minis.com.au for $185...

Try Lindsay

http://www.minis.com.au/minis/catalog/i ... Path=21_53

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also try www.minisport.com.au
but add the postage and see who wins..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I get a set of hypertec pistons and hasting chrome rings thru auto pro here for around $210 complete. Try your local auto pro place and see what they come up with. If no good I will see what I can do.

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

alright.

Lindsay has them stocked and ready to go, 195 + 8.50 postage.

Im going to bore out my original block (fairly confident with this choice) and slot them in (at least ill still have 2 more rebores if need be)

Now, i have 2 1100 cranks... where can i take them to get looked over to determine which is the lesser of 2 evils?

And can someone make comment on Redi-strip? have you used them? what is the actual process they use etc...?

-matt

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Take both cranks up to Spiro, at
St George Crankshafts,
Bearing Rd, Seven Hills.
02 9674 1201
He regrinds all GR's cranks and knows what to look for..

re Redistrip, ask GR. They are good, but getting expensive...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Last time I used redi strip they charged about $200 from memory to strip the block (Chemical dips ect) they do a great job but yep, getting expensive!

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Mini, its in my blood........

Mix up some [molasses + water] mix in a plastic bin, drop the block in there for 3 or 4 weeks. Every week, take it out and hose it, then stick it back in.
Note it works great on rust, but can't handle grease or oil. Degrease it first.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

... and don't put any of the alloy bits in, unless you want to get rid of them

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I've tried this with smaller parts, but never a block. I've had better success with vinegar though - one part vinegar to about six parts water. Everything comes out looking shiny and new - the only way you can tell it was ever rusted is the holes where the rust used to be.

Having said this, I don't know how much it eats at the normal metal - I've used it on nuts and bolts and tuning pins for musical instruments without any hassle, but some of the surface must have been removed.