Greetings all.

Had a soft pedal and had to pump em a bit.

Cleaned up the Master cylinder, light hone and new rubber kit. Still not great. Will re-bleed em.

I always bleed LR, RR, LF then RF. I was taught to do the furthest point first. Is this the best way?

Cheers
Alex.

Yep - about right - a couple of other tricks to it as well though.

Just unnip the first union after the master cylinder and pump a couple of times to ake sure you have fluid in the lines.

Then slacken off the adjustment in the drum brakes. Bleed the wheel cylinder furtherest from the master cylinder. Passenger rear. Adjust up those brakes and then bleed the drivers side rear. Adjust up those brakes.

Then the passengers front - if drums adjust up those brakes and finally the drivers side front.

Dont pump furiously. The brake fluid is fairly viscous and all you are doing is frothing it up and trapping air bubbles. Long slow pumps and give it a second or two at the bottom and top of each stroke for both the wheel cylinder and the master cylinder to fill with fluid.

Mike

Thanks Mike.

Will get back to it after tea. Been hot and sweaty in Adelaide today! Damm glasses fog up under the dash!

Cheers
Alex.

Sorry to Hijack your thread. Would any one know the best place to buy silicone brake fluid at a lower price..... Some want over a 100 bucks for a litre.. That is daylight robbery in my books.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Just a quick note - did you bench bleed the master cylinder before attaching it to the car? The pedal probably won't travel the full length of the cylinder and can leave air in it if you don't.

..

it doesn`t matter what order you bleed brakes

i let them all loose & drip away by themselves (Gravity bleed)

just keep an eye on the reservoir & keep topping it up as necessary

then lock-up all the nipples & job done

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

This ^^.
Get the fluid through the MC then gravity bleed, have a beer while you are waiting.. don't forget to keep the MC topped up above 2/3 full though.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

4 wheel gravity bleed is the GO!

From personal experience.........only thing that worked for me when I refitted the reco'd booster.

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

will this work on pesky metro calipers?

you guys doing this on stands with wheels off?

using any piping off the nipples to collect the mess?

Should do

Nope wheels on, just get ya hands onto the nipples....

small hose into bottle

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Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

oooh getting my hands on 3 nipples each side.... with a newborn in the house, that's surely a dream...

Just to let ya know.

Mike - I slowed down and bled them "slowly" and in that order.

Now their 101%. Full pedal and pulls up straight. Had to back the h/Brake off as it was dragging.

Didn't try the gravity method, maybe next time. Sounded tricky and I've got the 997 on the rotis over the pit.

Thanks all.

Reviving old thread...

Just rebuilt my brake system including the booster. There is no fluid in the system whatsoever. Where do I start? Bench bleed MC's first? Does gravity bleeding work with the booster (under right wheel arch) or do I bleed that last?

I put a booster on mine last year, under the dash. It bled up fine with an unattractive assistant using the pedal. Make sure the MC is bench bled first.
I doubt your booster will gravity bleed initially, however once the pipes are full to the brakes there should be no problem.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.