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dalmeny
 Post subject: Re: What's going on????
PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 11:53 am 
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miniDave wrote:
dalmeny wrote:
2. The cover plates over the push rods, fitted with cork caskets and good sealant were leaking oil down the back of the engine. I had them a nice snug tight, but obviously not tight enough. Can you tighten the bejessus out of those cork gaskets??????


If your covers are the ones that rise outwards with the bolt on the peak then you need to seal around the bolt head. There is a rubber/felt washer as new but I put some RTV Grey gasket maker under the bolt head and the leak stopped.

Agree also with the suggestion that unless the engine breathing is set up properly it will blow oil. Can't see a PCV set up in that rocker cover. I have the same cover that I put a BSB thread and 90 degree angle output and plumbed it in with a toyota PCV (under advice from DrMini) to the manifold.

Cheers


Dave, any chance you could throw up a photo of your set-up for the PCV.

P.S. So the hole in the top of the cap and the breather tube attached to the rear cover doesn't stand for much?

Thanks

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74snail
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 1:06 pm 
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As you can see I have a breather on the right near the radiator , my rocker cover is vented straight out , my engine is a factory standard bore 1100, factory cam but with a higher compression ( about 9:2 or 9:3.1 )with the change of head , I have no real need for another breather as the crankcase pressure even with hard use is about static , from what you are describing I would say that you need two breathers to reduce the crankcase pressure


Image


.

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dodge
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 2:13 pm 
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my leaking gaskets should have used silicoln
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Morris 1100
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 2:18 pm 
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Use Permatex (Loctite) No3. Leave the silicone for sealing the bathroom tiles.
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Callin
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 2:50 pm 
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my understanding with cork gaskets, rod covers and rocker cover alike, they should only be done up firmly. Too tight will squash them and cause leaks, if not deform the covers

Sounds as if as described you might need another breather because of excess pressure

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Super-mini
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 2:56 pm 
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you want to run plain water in a fresh engine for the run in period before going to coolant.
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 3:36 pm 
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Dodge,
Did you change the square o-rings on those 2 bolts-- the late covers like these are more likely to leak there than the gasket.
The right gaskets for these late covers are NOT cork, they are red silicone rubber- used on Cooper S and 998 Clubby.
The cork and cork/rubber gaskets are for the early flat face covers only (size is different).

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dalmeny
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 7:41 pm 
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Super-mini wrote:
you want to run plain water in a fresh engine for the run in period before going to coolant.


Got that info from John Smidt after I arrived at his place with the coolant in. Is there any point in putting water in now after 200 miles with coolant?

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 7:44 pm 
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I don't think so. The main idea of using water is in case there are initial leaks.
If it's not leaking now I'd just retighten the head, and carry on. :wink:

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dalmeny
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 7:52 pm 
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As usual you guys are right again.

I cleaned it up and took it for another run and it looks like the oil is being sprayed out of the squashed breather pipe in the rear cover plate. Do I need to put the original tappet cover on and feed a hung of hose down towards the road or do I drill the alloy cover and fit a PCV and run it into the manifold. Does it have to be balanced between the two inlets, or can it just tap into the one side of the inlet?

If there is a thread on here about the set up can you let me known.

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dalmeny
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 7:54 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I don't think so. The main idea of using water is in case there are initial leaks.
If it's not leaking now I'd just retighten the head, and carry on. :wink:


Thanks drmini any thoughts on the "clack clack"noise that goes when you push the clutch in!!

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Morris 1100
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 8:05 pm 
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Does it do it with the motor stopped?
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dalmeny
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 8:12 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Does it do it with the motor stopped?


Morrie!! What does that mean? It's perfectly quiet with the motor off.

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 8:28 pm 
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dalmeny wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
I don't think so. The main idea of using water is in case there are initial leaks.
If it's not leaking now I'd just retighten the head, and carry on. :wink:


Thanks drmini any thoughts on the "clack clack"noise that goes when you push the clutch in!!

yeah it's 90% bound to be primary gear rattle. Won't hurt it...
Caused by- slow idle, light flywheel, big cam, too much endfloat on primary gear, gear wear, etc.

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9YaTaH
 Post subject: Re: What's going on????
PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 8:36 pm 
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miniDave wrote:

If your covers are the ones that rise outwards with the bolt on the peak then you need to seal around the bolt head. There is a rubber/felt washer as new but I put some RTV Grey gasket maker under the bolt head and the leak stopped.

Cheers


and check that they haven't been over torqued at some stage and the rise is squashed or no more...check that the flat sections around the rim are flat against the block (before you put the gasket on)

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