Easy

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Thats what the minitech AWD kit uses (superfastminis.com).

I've wondered how they deal with differences in final drive between the CRV diff and the mazda diff.

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Excuse me....? Did you say prop adapter?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hayabusa-Eng ... 231697b13d

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

oh my lord....

http://www.sprocket-adaptors.co.uk/

http://www.downsengineering.com/suzuki_busa.html

http://www.abperformance.co.uk/

http://www.abperformance.co.uk/hintsandtips.aspx?cat=6

http://www.abperformance.co.uk/products.aspx?cat=35

http://www.sprocket-adaptors.co.uk/links.html

http://www.edgebuggyforums.com/viewtopi ... f&start=20

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Nice!!!

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

Just thinking this through here. With reference to the picture above:

Use only the diff/driveshafts/inner & outer CV's. (The overall width of the GTIR rear end (from mounting face of each wheel) is not so large that the difference in width couldn't be overcome/corrected with wheel offset.)

Fabricate a rear trailing arm similar to the Z cars such that it:

Mounts to the factory subframe using factory mini components (bearings/rods).

Accepts gtir bearings/cv's and locates the gtir disc/caliper/hand brake cable.

Maintains the usage of "off the shelf" mini coilovers. (how close is a mini wheel to hitting the coilovers today? Will adding more positive offset to correct track width cause the wheel to hit the coilover?

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

For reference... I have been liaising with Chris from Z Cars. They will sell their "hub" (partial conponent) of the rear trailer arm. They will actually sell the whole trailing arm but the rose/sphercial joints are no good in AUS.

This hub takes a Ford Mondeo CV and their handbrake cable, caliper and brake rotor. Must be a 13" wheel though.

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

JC, 2 problems i can see with that is/are

one- the mini rear subframe won`t allow enough axle swing/travel through the sub-frame member (where the donut & strut used to be) & would need a massive "opening up" (not really so much of a problem in my books tho, but i personally wouldn`t use the mini rear frame anyways if you were going 4x4)

& two- the """coil-overs & wheel off-set package""" will be a problem (just as you suggest) clearancing also won`t be too much of a problem in my book either tho,,, by recessing the shocks further into the inner-arch/tub,,, a little body work wouldn`t hurt anyone.

---------------------------

I think the minitech 4x4 honda kit is a bit of an over-kill in materials & looks quite heavy & complicated to me, but may well be worth the effort bringing one into Aust to see if any engineers will be happy with it for DOT purposes because making your own may be an uphill battle

"""BUT""" i`d only be happy with a 4x4 conversion """IF""" there was """MASSIVE""" power to be utilised

otherwise a super lightweight hillclimb special much like my own , but with the 4x4 & turbo bike engine package is what i`m doing & bugga the DOT crap,,,,keep it for the race track & just use a twin-cam turbo Bimmer in my Monaco fastback for the tow-car

i can see you`re in a few different worlds of thought JC,,, maybe you need to come have a run in my buggy first, before you decide what you want to do

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

A few options Matthew

RWD front mounted bike motor

FWD front mounted bike motor

Honda mini tech kit

7 port mini set up

I just need to do as much research as possible before making a decision. A decision needs to be made in 5 months to give me enough time to compile parts while I'm on this side of the equator.

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

I had anticipated making a new subframe to house the diff along the lines of the red ute shown in page 1. The minitech option is "one" off the shelf solution but if you look closely on what is required to fit it, there is significant modification to the car. The diff sits quite high, the gtir diff is quite compact so I doubt it would impact as much. No doubt a new boot floor will be required, but not to the same extent as the minitech option. The minitech kit also discounts the usage of the existing tank(s).



I figured another (i won't say simpler) option may be to "shorten" the driveshafts to get the correct track width. If a new trailing arm is needed "shortening" the driveshaft would make sense. If one was to take (say) 1cm out of each end of each shaft, that may well be all that is required.

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Hey JC,

What about mid-mount RWD BEC???

Maybe you will have to define its use, before you come up with the correct geometry and architecture....

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

Well, in all honesty it is unlikely to be registerable, though I will do my best to do that.

Mid mount - yeah then the z cars kit would plug that gap. I like the idea of the motor being outside the cabin though. Also, you can buy a completed z cars car for 8,000 pounds. They come up every now and then. But I quite like the hunting, sourcing and research. It annoys the piss out of my wife, but she knows its in me and won't go away. Both her dad and my dad suffered the same affliction.

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Just getting my weekly fix from Palatov Motorsports and read this.....

http://www.dpcars.net/dp4/

yada yada yada ... "since the '07-08 GSXR1000 will be the 'standard' engine for the dp4 we borrowed a blown-up one for measurement. I've always guessed it's about 50 lbs lighter than the Hayabusa...

And, at 135 lbs, it is. Good to know. It's also more compact, can run with a baffled pan ('busa needs a drysump) and makes fractionally more horsepower. Easy choice."

Additionally he talks about "cush" drives relieving the bikes gearbox of shock. May be worthwhile mounthing the tailshaft using a uni joint. The GTIR DIff is a viscous coupling so should also help out there.

Furthermore, a turbo manifold for the gsxr1000 off the shelf is $100. I am of the view a turbo manifold with a single dump pipe off the turbo would be far easier to make than a four into onr bike exhaust

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Interesting paddle shift. Cable operated.

_________________
But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Simply, make up a new rear firewall that starts just in front of the rear seats and continues up and over to meet the parcel shelf. Its a fairly simple bit of fabrication.

I like the fact you are doing it yourself, or at the very least, challenging the ideas of established fabricators to see where the best value/combination is.

_________________
"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"