hi ,any secrect on how to bled brakes....do i need to bench bled the master cylinder first as it new?..thanks....81 gt..uk .model.

i "pre-prime" all my master cyls before fitting them

& when i bleed --> i release all 4x nipples & let them all drip-bleed (gravity bleed)... have a cuppa while you keep the reservoir topped up ,,, & then when it`s all happy & no more air is coming out, i run around & tighten them all back up again

Job done

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

A Cuppa? I normally empty a cask of Wine!!

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I have no probs bleeding single circuit ones. But when I reconditioned Barney's tandem one a few years ago I could only get around 1/2 a pedal.
I gave up, drove it to B&R Brakes and they power bled the bugger.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've found the same thing over the years too Doc,,,

For those wondering.. a tip I have picked up along the way is, if Matt's method does not work, (yes sometimes it won't come out, unless you get the flow happening to begin with) (only on the tandem ones mind you this happens)

I crack the joints at the safety ball switch valve thingy,, no idea what they call it, bias valve? but anyway, the thing that saves/helps if you loose brakes to a wheel etc..,, which is bolted above the subframe tower.... this is why single master cyclinders have no trouble bleeding blind folded,, they don't have this.. it is located at the rear subframe

ANYWAY... yes I crack the joints/ brake lines going from the master cyclinder and into this valve.. get that flow happening tighten it all back up, and your laughing,, go have a few beers, and shall be done

Also if you look at the design of the shape of the pipe (the bend) coming out of the single and tandem master cylinders, they are different,, and one is higher than the other from the level of the fluid in the master cylinder..

One put's 2 and 2 together and will realise that crap won't flow up hill, until it gets a flow happening to begin with..

Those who have run outta fuel in a truck on the side of the road before and had to suck on a hose and taste how awesome diesel is, will know exactly what I mean

wow,, i think this is the most I have typed on here in bloody ages!! think I must have had too much to drink tonight!!

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

I actually use a pressure-feed when doing bike brakes. The reasoning being air is buoyant and will get pushed up by the fluid pressure from below. On a car-sized object though you do need an assistant to syphon off the excess fluid from the master cylinder while you push the air up from the bottom. A few pumps while still applying upward pressure will soon have any remaining air bubbling out in the master cylinder. Once there's no more air, close off the bleed nipple, top up the master & you're done.

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You're only supposed to blow the BLUDDY DOORS OFF!!

I guess I will find out tommorrow when I bleed my new brake system with all new parts

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

thanks for the help ..will try ..all tips

I bled my brakes today and started from all new parts, late version yellow tag master cylinder, 4 spot front discs and copoper s rear wheel cylinders with a limiting valve on the rear subframe with no fluid in any cylinders and also not pre bled on the bench.
I filled the master cylinder with fluid, connected a tube to one of the front bleed nipples, which i cracked open and placed the tube into a jar with fluid in the bottom and pumped the brake pedal, after a few pumps i was getting fluid and bubbles thru the tube and then finally clear fluid. I closed the nipple and then repeated at one of the rear cylinders with the same results.
I then went to each wheel and repeated the process.
All good and I had a good hard brake pedal.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S